Shopping revolves around the souks, where you can buy almost anything depending on which area of the market you're in. Rue el-Attarine is a particularly vibrant part of the medina, with heaps of fruit, vegetables, spices and herbs; traditional cosmetics and exotic unguents are found around the henna souk in the heart of Fes el-Bali.

Popular souvenirs include the Fes famous blue and white pottery, jewellery, wood carvings, lanterns, brass work, woven cushion covers (try Chez Hamidou on Derb Chouwara near the Tanneries), scarves, leather belts, shoes or the bright babouches (slippers) and, of course, carpets (try Tissage Berbere, 4 Derb Taouil). Prices are low by Western standards and Fes craftsmen are considered the best in the country.

If you really want a Fez (the cylindrical tasselled hat named after its home town), look in the lanes called Kissaria, which are lined with clothes shops. The government-run, fixed-price Ensemble Artisanal, avenue Allah ben Abdullah in the Ville Nouvelle, is worth a visit if you cannot face haggling. It is open daily 0900-1200 and 1430-1830.

Shops and souks are generally open from around 0900 until around 1800 but closed on Friday mornings and sometimes on Friday afternoon as well. Some shops may close for lunch. Most shops close on public holidays and on the secular 'fêtes nationales'.