Only around 20% of Tanzania's roads are sealed, including those between Dar es Salaam and Arusha, and Dar es Salaam and Mbeya. Depending on the weather conditions, the remainder can be average to impassable. Unless you are familiar with driving in East Africa, it is unusual to tour the country by car. Most people base themselves in a region and arrange for a tour agent or safari operator to organise transport.

If you are coming into the country in a private vehicle you'll need the registration papers and your driving licence, or preferably an international driving licence, as well as a temporary import permit, which you must buy at the border in addition to a one-off fuel levy. You will also require a carnet de passage en douane, which acts as a temporary waiver of import duty. Tanzanians drive on the left. The speed limit is 80kph (50mph) unless otherwise shown. Drivers and front-seat passengers must wear seat belts.

There are a handful of car hire agencies in Dar es Salaam, including Avis on Ohio Street (tel: (022) 211 5381; website: www.avis.com), Green Car Rentals on Nkrumah Street (tel: (022) 218 2022) and Hertz on Ohio Street (tel: (022) 212 2130; website: www.hertz.com). Most companies insist that you hire a 4-wheel drive vehicle if driving outside the city and may require you to also hire a driver.

Dar es Salaam's main bus terminal is at Ubungo, 8km (5 miles) west of the city on Morogoro Road. To get to and from Ubongo, catch a dalla-dalla (minibuses) or hail a taxi. However, the bus company Scandinavian Express (tel: (022) 218 4833; website: www.scandinaviagroup.com) operates its own terminal on the corner of Msimbazi Street and Nyerere Road, which is quieter and closer than Ubungo, where they also have a ticket office.

Two other big bus companies are Dar Express (tel: 0748 276 060) and Royal Coach (tel: (022) 212 4073). Each bus line has its own booking office near the station on Libya Street, except for Scandinavian Express who sell tickets online or at their own terminal. Prices are usually fixed and should always be bought from the office, never from a tout.

Express buses are quicker, less crowded and run according to a schedule. Some have air conditioning and toilets on board. Ordinary buses are more congested, slower and leave when full.

Scandinavian Express also runs a number of daily international bus services between Dar es Salaam and Nairobi in Kenya, via Arusha, as well as Dar es Salaam to Mombasa on the Kenyan coast. There are also bus services from Dar es Salaam to Lilongwe in Malawi, Kampala in Uganda and Lusaka in Zambia.