Nestled below rolling mountains and a short hop from the sun-drenched coastline, Caracas is a frenetic city of tangled motorways, gas-guzzling cars, soaring high rises, modern architecture and vibrant culture. Birthplace of South American independence hero Simón Bolívar, it is a city inordinately proud of its past, but with its eyes set on the future – though these days not all its inhabitants are looking in the same direction.

Famed for its dedication to the good life, Caracas fizzes with energy at night when clubs, bars and open-air cafés absorb hordes of tireless revellers hell-bent on having a good time. Another thing Caraqueños take seriously is the content of their stomachs, with an astonishing variety of cuisines on offer, be it gourmet, international, down-home or freshly sizzled street fare. You'll also find a broad range of accommodation, a string of excellent attractions, a busy arts scene and an obsession for shopping that borders upon the religious.

However, be warned that public discontent, political strife and crime have been serious problems in Caracas recently, and some areas are strictly off limits. Evidence of poverty is omnipresent and visitors are shocked by homeless families camping outside corporate skyscrapers and glitzy malls. At night twinkling lights decorate the mountains – a beautiful but bitter-sweet sight emanating from the shanty towns that encircle the city. But the mountains are also an escape from the city's relentless noise and hustle, with the blissfully serene Parque Nacional El Ávila looming directly over northern Caracas, its slopes riddled with walking trails and home to a cable car.