Built in 1979 (and ever-expanding), the metro, open from 0500 to 2330, is the best way to get around the city centre. This service, run by Metrorex (tel: (021) 319 3601; website: www.metrorex.ro) has four metro lines (M1, M2, M3 and M4), and 45 stations and is generally reliable. Stations are indicated by white signs with a blue ‘M', although these are not always as visible as they should be and platforms are poorly marked. Inside, magnetic tickets are purchased at counters indicated by a ‘Casa' sign.

There are two types of ticket - two-journey and 10-journey tickets. Metro maps are posted near the ticket gate entrance. Tickets must be inserted into a machine on top of the ticket gate, which records the entrance time on the ticket. Tickets must be kept throughout the journey, as transport police sometimes check and impose fines on those without. The final destination is indicated on the front of the train. Each stop is announced as the train nears the station. One-day and one-month passes are also available at the station.

Buses (autobus), trams (tramvai) and trolleybuses (troilebuz) operate as one system, running 0500 to 2400. RATB, Bulevardul Dinicu Golscu 1, (tel: (021) 314 7130) provides this service. Tickets are interchangeable for all three forms of transport (except express buses). The express bus system is more useful for reaching destinations outside the city centre, as only a few express buses actually pass through the centre itself. You can buy transport maps from yellow kiosks near bus and tram stops.

You can also buy tickets at kiosks but these must be stamped in the orange ticket machine on-board (there's a fine if you're caught without a validated ticket). Passes for one day, one week, 15 days and one month are also available. This system is more crowded and confusing than the metro and pickpockets can be a problem during the peak hours.

Taxis have a terrible reputation in Bucharest for overcharging passengers. You're generally better off not hailing taxis on the street, but telephoning a reliable one - or picking one up outside a hotel. Some of the best companies are Cobalcescu (tel: 9451), CrisTaxi (tel: 9461), Fly Taxi (tel: 9441) and Meridian (tel: 9444). On the street, tourists should stick to the yellow taxis that indicate the journey's cost on their meters. There is no additional charge for luggage in yellow taxis. A supplement is charged at night, however. It is customary to round up the amount owed as the tip. Drivers rarely give change and keep whatever excess they receive. Visitors should note that the current number of zeros on Lei notes can make meter reading tricky.

Another form of transport is the maxitaxi. These drive along Piata Romana to Piata Unirii and from the Opera Romana to Bulevardul Carol I, every 10 minutes from 0600 to 2100, but it can be difficult understanding the routes without some local assistance. They can be hailed by a wave of the hand.

Driving around Bucharest can be confusing. Streets are not always clearly marked and are full of unexpected potholes. In addition to this, Romanians drive fast and not all that carefully. However, it can be a useful way of getting around, especially to the city's outskirts.

Most Romanian drivers simply park on the side roads (or pavements) for free. There are no parking meters, and towing almost never occurs, but in some central streets there are roaming parking attendants. Some hotels have parking areas that you can use.

Car hire, targeted at business visitors, can be expensive. Major companies include Avis (tel: (021) 204 1957; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (021) 204 1667; website: www.budgetro.ro), Europcar (tel: (021) 201 4937; website: www.europcar.com) and Hertz (tel: (021) 335 7531; website: www.hertz.com.ro). Romanian car hire operators, such as Absolut Rent-a-Car (tel: (021) 319 5473; website: www.esa.ro), tend to be much cheaper than the bigger chains.

Drivers must be at least 21 years of age and must hold a valid passport, international insurance policy (Green Card, in Europe), an international driving permit and a valid driving licence that is at least one year old. Some of these companies also offer cars with drivers

Bicycle and scooter hire is neither advisable nor available in Bucharest, seeing as traffic is unpredictable, roads are bad and the likelihood of theft is high.