Leeds' relatively compact centre makes it perfect for exploring on foot. Free maps can be picked up from the tourist office and it's a quick and easy city to get acquainted with and find your way around. But to get a real sense of Leeds' history with all its quirky eccentricities and unusual anecdotes, the services of a local guide are invaluable. Michael Barber (tel: (0113) 271 3421) and Ken Goor (tel: (0113) 252 6807) are both registered tour guides who have plenty of local knowledge and can put together tailor-made tours of the city. The Tourist Information Centre (tel: (0113) 242 5242; website: www.leedsliveitloveit.com) can help with organising a tour guide.