Pest's chic Váci utca and its surrounding avenues tempt tourists with familiar high-street and designer names but bargain buys are to be found at Nagy Vásárcsarnok (Great Market Hall), IX Fovám tér, an imposing three-storey structure that first opened in 1897 and now draws 30,000 shoppers daily. On the ground floor are strings of paprika-like red coral necklaces, pots of pickles, goose liver and salami.

There is also a supermarket to stock up on Tokaj wines, Pálinka (cherry and apricot brandy) and bitter, black Zwack unicum (herbal liqueur). Upstairs, there is a choice of Kalocsa and Matyó hand-embroidered tablecloths, Zsolnay and Herendi porcelain, glittering beaded necklaces and traditional folk costumes. The Great Market Hall is open Monday 0600-1700, Tuesday to Friday 0600-1800 and Saturday 0600-1400 (closed Sunday).

Budapest's BÁV stores, the main branch of which is found at V Bécsi utca 1, are state-run pawn shops selling everything from junk to gems. Porcelain lovers should hunt down Zsolany, V Kigyó utca 4, or Herend, I Szentháromság utca 5 - both produce some of the finest pieces in Europe.

Standard shop opening hours are Monday to Friday 1000-1800 and Saturday 1000-1300. Department stores usually open from 1000, while grocers, bakeries and supermarkets are open 0700-2000. Many shops open until 2000 or 2100 on Thursdays. Shops are closed on Sundays, except shopping malls. Each district has at least one 24-hour store. Many small shops close for summer in late July and August and almost everything shuts on public holidays.

Sales tax (ÁFA) of 25% (12% for food, some medical supplies, books and newspapers and hotel rooms) is included in the price and can be reclaimed by visitors purchasing goods worth Ft50,000 or more. A receipt and VAT refund application form must be presented to customs on leaving the country.