The nightlife scene in the centre of Tunis is pretty limited. The cafe terraces along avenue Habib Bourguiba are bursting with people until late evening, but no alcohol is served. The bars where alcohol is served are raucous affairs, where men only down beers as fast as they can.

Exceptions where women are welcome too, preferably in male company though, are Bar Jamaica at the Hotel el-Hana International, avenue Habib Bourguiba, with great views from its 10th floor location and lounge music, and Oscars, rue de Marseille, with live music at the weekend. Le Boeuf sur le Toit, 3 avenue Fatouma Bourguiba, suburb of La Soukra, is a lively bar-restaurant attracting a trendy crowd, with a dance floor, good DJs, live music at weekends and Sunday jazz evenings.

The most popular place to go in the evening, particularly in summer, are the cafes in Sidi Bou Said, where you can sip mint tea, smoke a narguileh (waterpipe) and watch the crowds go by. The large resort hotels in La Marsa and Gammarth all have nightclubs, with two of the best at the Hotel Plaza Corniche, rue du Maroc, La Marsa (tel: (071) 743 489) and Villa Didon, Byrsa Hill, Carthage (website: www.villadidon.com).