Using public transport is not recommended in Cairo with the exception of the clean, cheap and efficient metro system. Buses are usually overcrowded and visitors will have to fight their way on like the Cairenes (citizens of Cairo), who leap at the bus before it has even stopped. For those keen to experience this quintessential part of Cairo life, however, tickets should be purchased on board from the conductor who fights his way through the throng. The fare depends on the journey length.

There are also microbuses, which are private enterprises and a cross between a taxi and a public bus. The destination is not displayed, so visitors should shout out where they wish to go as one passes and if it is going in the right direction and has room on board, it will stop. The fare is slightly more than the public buses.

The metro is one of Cairo's delights. The system is clean, quick, cool, safe and cheap, operating 0600-2400 (to 0100 May-Sep); it can get extremely crowded during Ramadan. There are two lines. One runs along the east bank of the Nile from Helwan in the north to al-Marg in the south, via Tahrir. The other, newer line goes from Shubra in the north to Giza in the west, also via Tahrir where the two lines intersect. More metro extensions are planned.

A flat fare is in place for up to nine stops, with a sliding scale beyond that. Smoking is not permitted in the stations or on the trains. The first two carriages on most trains are reserved for women only, although women can travel in any carriage without much risk of harassment.

Unfortunately, the metro does not serve most of the main tourist spots although Sadat is handy for Midan Tahrir in downtown Cairo and Mari Girgis is a convenient stop for Old Cairo.

While Cairo does have its share of rogue taxis drivers, there are also many drivers who will become your guide, protector and even a good friend while you are visiting the city. Taking a taxi directly from a hotel is more expensive than hailing one in the street, but you will have the car to yourself. Taxis are black and white and are shared, so if one is driving by with other passengers, it is possible to call out your destination and if it is going that way, it will stop.

The protocol in Cairo is different from that in many other cities. Passengers are expected to know the fare rather than negotiate it in advance or go by the meter. This can obviously be difficult for the new arrival. The best solution is to ask the advice of the hotel concierge, or other passengers if you have hailed a shared taxi.

Driving in Cairo is not for the faint-hearted. Visitors who are determined to give it a go, however, should spend a day or two observing the locals with their myriad hand gestures, horn honks, aggressive posturing and bare-faced cheek, before getting behind the wheel. Rush hour lasts all day and most of the evening too. Road markings are ignored, as are most of the traffic lights. At night, few drivers use lights, except for flashing lights, which are to tell oncoming traffic to get out of the way, rather than to indicate giving way as in many countries. As for parking - let's just say, it's not a concept the double-parking locals give much thought to. All in all, most visitors stick to taxis for good reason.

The minimum age for hiring a car in Egypt is 25 years and an International Driving Permit is required. Most of the major hotels have agents for the leading car hire companies but the main offices are: Avis, 11 Kamal El Din Street, Simon Boulivar Square, Garden City (tel: (02) 2368 9400) or International Airport (tel: (02) 2265 2429) (website: www.avis.com); Budget, 22 El Mathaf El Zeraee Street, Dokki (tel: (02) 762 0158) or New Airport (tel: (02) 265 2395) (website: www.budget.com); Hertz, 195 Sharia 26th July Street, Agouza (tel: (02) 347 4172) or International Airport (tel: (02) 265 2430) (website: www.hertz.com); and Sixt, 41 Road 270 (tel: (02) 703 1082) or International Airport (tel: (02) 703 1018) (website: www.e-sixt.com).

Although many Egyptians cycle, it would be madness for any visitor not used to Cairo traffic to consider doing the same.