Calgary's nightlife is better than what you might expect of a cowboy and oil town in the middle of the Canadian prairie. Locals are friendly, festive and always ready to put away a big Alberta steak or a few drinks, especially on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. However, during the Stampede, Calgary transforms into a true party city.

The city is best explored through its various neighbourhoods. Downtown is a fine place for a drink during the day or early evening and the partying continues at bars and clubs dotted throughout the area. If you want your action more concentrated, stick to areas like Kensington (known for its streets lined with a diverse range of cafes, bars, restaurants and clubs) or 17th Avenue SW (west of Fourth Street), a quieter setting where the pubs have more character and the restaurants veer more towards the ethnic.

Alcohol can legally be served in Alberta until 0200 and the minimum drinking age is 18 years. Dress at most bars and clubs is casual, although more upmarket establishments may refuse entry to those wearing ripped jeans or trainers, for example. Admission to bars is free, unless a band is playing. Pints of beer usually cost around C$4-8, and mixed drinks around C$6-12. Pick up a free FFWD Weekly (website: www.ffwdweekly.com) or WHERE (website: www.where.ca) for information on club nights and gigs.

Bars: The Barley Mill Eatery and Pub, beside Eau Claire Market at 201 Barclay Parade SW, is a lively bar offering a multitude of draught beers and whiskies, with a great patio in the summer. Nearby, The Garage Billiards and Sports, 200 Barclay Parade SW, has 17 pool tables, rock music and a grill menu. For a straightforward pub, you could do worse than The Ship & Anchor, 534 17th Avenue SW, with occasional jam sessions and gigs.

The Wildwood Grill & Brewing Company, 2417 Fourth Street SW, is a brewery offering its own ales, lagers and seasonal beers, as well as 'Rocky Mountain' cuisine. Another bar worth checking out is Aussie Rules, on 1002 37th Street SW, famous for its duelling pianos on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. For a hip martini bar, try Ming, 520 17th Avenue SW. Flames Central, 219 Eighth Avenue SW, is a new sports bar and restaurant, satisfying the Canadian passion for ice hockey.

Clubs: Nightlife in Calgary is more suited towards bars, pubs and live music than clubs. Those looking for a nightclub, however, will not be disappointed (unless they are under 21 - the minimum age for some). Tantra Nightclub and Lounge, 355 10th Avenue SW (website: www.tantranightclub.ca), has live music and dancing and caters to a corporate clientele. Plush Lounge, 205 Ninth Avenue SE (website: www.plushlounge.ca), has sensual opulence and intimate appeal. Also worth a mention is Bungalow, 524 17th Avenue SW, on the Red Mile, open from 1700-0200.

Live Music: Not surprisingly, Calgary is a great location to take in country and western music. You can take free dancing lessons at Ranchman's, 9615 MacLeod Trail South, a famous and always packed honky-tonk bar. Likewise, you're sure to meet a cowboy or girl at the enormous and ever-popular Cowboy's Dance Hall, 826 Fifth Street SW (website: www.cowboysniteclub.com), which is always packed during Calgary Stampede. Beat Niq Jazz & Social Club, 811 First Street SW (website: www.beatniq.com), is the best spot for jazz, while Booker's BBQ Grill and Crab Shack, 316 Third Street SE (website: www.bookersbbq.com), has live blues at the weekend.