Kiev is a great city to explore on foot and most of its best sights are the many ancient churches with beautiful golden domes which gleam on cloudless summer days and glow in the snow and fog of winter.

A short stroll from Khreschatyk, which is pedestrianised at weekends, and Maidan Nezalezhnosti will lead to another essential stop at Sofiskaya Square. Here the golden domes of St Sofia's and St Michael's are not for show, Kievans are deeply religious so expect a service to be under way in most churches you visit in the city.

A short distance on is Andrivksy Uziv, a cobbled street where Kiev's rich intellectual and bohemian history is in evidence with Bulgakov's house and the Museum of One Street. Further north, Podil is a distinct neighbourhood with some of the best bars and restaurants in the city. The Chernobyl Museum is also located here.

Surprisingly for a city that attracts so many foreign tourists, there is no central tourist agency to replace the Soviet-era Intourist. But one of the most reliable operators is Olymp Travel (tel: (044) 253 7108; website: www.olymp-travel.kiev.ua); which provides a good all-round service from transport to tours.