Damascus Sightseeing

At the heart of the old city is one of the oldest and most sacred Islamic monuments, the Great Umayyad Mosque, resplendent with stunning golden mosaics. Nearby the remnants of the Roman Temple of Jupiter are still standing, and the perfume souk leads to the 18th-century Ottoman Azem Palace.

The only road to cut through the warren of the old city is Straight Street, which leads through the Christian quarter to the Roman city gate of Bab Sharqi, the Chapel of Ananias and the modern St Paul's chapel.

The National Museum, in the new city, is a treasure trove of the country's finest archaeological finds. Next door is the Tekkiye as-Sulaymaniyye Mosque built by the master architect Sinan, and the tekke (monastery for whirling dervishes), now the Army Museum and a handicraft bazaar.

At night Damascenes love going up to Mount Qassioun for cooler air and sweeping views over their magnificent city.

The city's main tourist office is near the Cham Palace Hotel on Sharia 29 May (website: www.syriatourism.org). The smaller office next to the Handicrafts Souk near the Tekkiye as-Sulaymaniyye is often closed. Both provide free maps and old-fashioned brochures but offer very little practical information on the city. More information is available online at www.damascus-online.com and www.oldamascus.com.