It's through its nightlife that Belgrade really stamps its authority as a great party capital. It's a vibrant city that likes to have fun and is bursting with options ranging from sweaty smoke-filled underground bars to upmarket clubs popular with the young, rich and beautiful. Visitors who are more used to cities in Western Europe with its tendency towards bland pub chains will love the sheer variety of independent places, each one offering something a little bit different. Socialising also tends to go on much later here so there's a buzz and energy about the city no matter what the time of day or night.

There are plenty of open-air cafe-bars which are great for people-watching, but for something truly unique seek out the subterranean world of The Federal Association of Globe-Trotters (tel: (0)11 324 2303: website: www.aur.org.yu) on Bul Despota Stefana; nowhere near as formal as it sounds, this laidback bohemian bar was formerly a basement apartment and has live music every night. Plato, by Belgrade University's philosophy building on Akademski plato is something of an institution and is a great place to go for a drink at any time of the day or night. Another interesting coffee shop (more like what's known as a cafe bar in Western Europe) is Bistro Pastis on Strahinjića Bana (which is also teasingly known as ‘Silicon Valley' because of the area's popularity with young, rich and surgically-enhanced Belgraders); this is a great place to go for a pre-club drink with street-side tables and seating. For cocktails and more of a small club feel with DJs, try Ben Akiba on Nušićeva; tucked down an alleyway on the second floor of an apartment block, this is a great place with a laidback atmosphere.

One of the biggest and most popular nightclubs is Aundergraund which is located in the catacombs beneath the magnificent Kalemagden Fortress. But for something completely different, head to one of the many river boats moored along the banks of the rivers. They vary greatly from cool cocktail clubs with house music to studenty smoke-filled boats playing great pop and rock music where everybody is dancing; if it's the latter you're after, try Breeze on the north bank of the Sava river.