Belgrade's relatively compact size and excellent public transport network make it a great city to explore on foot. But the services of a good guide are irreplaceable for their expert knowledge, quirky stories and anecdotes that you won't find in the tourist guidebooks. The tourist board can help arrange guides for you or contact Nemanja Ciric (e-mail: nemciric@hotmail.com) - a thoroughly entertaining guide that can plan personal itineraries to suit. Another good way to get an overview of the city is the open-top bus tour with commentary that leaves from outside the Town Hall on Sundays during the summer months. And for a completely different perspective on the city, take a sightseeing boat along the Sava and Danube rivers taking in the sights of Kalemegdan, Zemun and Ada Ciganlija from the water. Details of all tours can be found at the Belgrade Tourist Organisation (tel: (0)11 324 8404; website: www.tob.co.yu).