Dublin might not be one of Europe's most visually stunning cities, but what it lacks in aesthetics it more than makes up for with its many attractions. Most of the sights are located south of the River Liffey, in a district of gracious Georgian mansions and leafy avenues around Grafton Street and elegant St Stephen's Green. The main landmarks here include Trinity College, the National Museum, Leinster House (the home of the Irish Parliament) and the National Gallery of Ireland.

Nearby, The Temple Bar district, once the site of Viking Dublin, has completely reinvented itself. After its promising 1980s resurrection, Temple Bar suffered under the weight of countless British stag and hen nights, scaring off locals and tourists alike. The tourist board and local publicans have since worked hard to deter the worst ravages of the pre-nuptial hordes.

West of Temple Bar, the historic cathedrals, Christ Church and St Patrick's (both vestiges of Anglo-Norman Dublin) are architecturally impressive. The Norman city walls are on view from neighbouring Cook Street. Dublin Castle, the symbol of the Anglo-Irish Ascendancy, stands proud on Dame Street.

The district of the Liberties lies to the west of St Patrick's Cathedral and is home to the Guinness Storehouse and brewery, The Irish Museum of Modern Art and Kilmainham Gaol - now a museum recounting the struggle for independence.

The city is bisected by the River Liffey, which flows west to east and is crossed by a number of bridges. These include the famous Ha'Penny Bridge and its newest neighbour, the Millennium Bridge, which joins Ormond Quay Lower on the north bank of the Liffey with Wellington Quay on the south bank.

North of the River Liffey the crowds of tourists dissipate in a rougher, grittier area, which Roddy Doyle generously summed up as having more 'soul' than sights. It contains the General Post Office (GPO), which has a facade pitted with gunfire from the Easter Rising of April 1916; the Dublin Writers Museum, The James Joyce Centre and the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art. The Custom House and Four Courts rival the Georgian mansions of the south in grandeur, although the Georgian architecture of Merrion Square, Fitzwilliam Square and St Stephen's Green is well worth admiring.

Other noteworthy sights include Phoenix Park to the west, Collin's Barracks and the sights located along the Grand Canal (the Shaw Birthplace, Irish Jewish Museum and National Print Museum), which loops around the south of the centre.

Dublin Tourism Centre
Suffolk Street
Tel: (01) 605 7700.
Website: www.visitdublin.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 1030-1700 (Jul-Aug); Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 1030-1500 (Jun and Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-1730, Sun 1030-1500 (rest of year); bank holidays 1030-1500. Closed 25-26 Dec, 1 Jan.

There are additional tourist information offices located at Dublin Airport (tel: (01) 605 7700), open daily 0800 to 2200, Baggot Street Bridge (tel: (01) 605 7700), open Monday to Friday 0930 to 1700, Dún Laoghaire Harbour (tel: (01) 605 7700), open Monday to Saturday 1000 to 1245 and 1400 to 1800, and 14 Upper O'Connell Street (tel: (01) 605 7700), open Monday to Saturday 0900 to 1700.

The Dublin Pass provides free, fast-track entry to over 30 attractions, a comprehensive guidebook and many special shopping, service and restaurant offers in one complete package, including transport from Dublin airport. It is available as a one-, two-, three- or six-day pass and can be purchased online at www.dublinpass.ie or at any of the city's tourist information offices.