Florence Culture
The entertainment publication Firenze Spettacolo (website: www.firenzespettacolo.it) provides listings on entertainment in the city. Agenzia Box Office, Via Luigi Alamanni (tel: (055) 210 804; website: www.boxol.it), Via Porta Rossa 82r (tel: (055) 219 402), or Viale Giannotti 13r (tel: (055) 680 362), sells most other tickets.
Music: Florence can claim a couple of musical firsts. Not only was the first piano invented in the city, by Bartolomeo Crostoferi, but also the first ever opera, Daphne, was performed here in 1598, at the home of Jacopo Corsi. Unfortunately the score does not survive and Florence has not maintained its early influence on the operatic form. Today's opera season opens in September and is held chiefly at the Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16 (tel: (055) 277 9350 or 213 535; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com), on the banks of the Arno. L'Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (website: www.maggiofiorentino.com) is the city's main orchestra, which plays at the Teatro Communale. The Orchestra della Toscana Via Verdi 5 (tel: (055) 234 0710; website: www.orchestradellatoscana.it) also performs concerts at the Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99.
Chamber music can be heard most weekends at the Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola (tel: (055) 226 4335; website: www.pergola.firenze.it), an ornate 17th-century theatre that also stages classical concerts and opera.
Theatre: The Teatro della Pergola (see above) and the Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99 (tel: (055) 212 320 or 239 6242; website: www.teatroverdifirenze.it), are the two chief venues for drama in Florence. Most performances are conducted in Italian, so a good understanding of the language is vital. Performances are typically productions of classic Italian dramas or foreign plays in translation, interspersed with the occasional contemporary production. Tickets are available at respective theatre box offices.
Other city theatres include Teatro Puccini, Via delle Cascine (tel: (055) 362 067; website: www.teatropuccini.it), home to Off Theatre, for a variety of performances from opera to new plays. There are new Italian dramas at Teatro di Rifredi, Via V Emanuele 303 (tel: (055) 422 0361; website: www.toscanateatro.it), and experimental theatre at Teatro Studio di Scandicci, Via Donizetti 58 (tel: (055) 757 348 or 751 853; website: www.scandiccicultura.org).
Dance: The annual Florence Dance Festival (tel: (055) 289 276; website: www.florencedance.org) was first conceived in 1990, although its future remains under threat, due to lack of funding. The festival aims to bring some of the best names in contemporary and classical dance to Florence, with an annual contest for emerging choreographers. Performances usually run for a month in July and are held in outdoor venues, such as Piazzale Michelangelo and the Teatro Romano in Fiesole. Ballet performances also take place from November to March at the Teatro Verdi, and during the Maggio Fiorentino festival, at various venues, throughout the year. Information and tickets are available from the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Corso Italia 16 (tel: (055) 277 9350 or 427 5367; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com).
Film: Florence has been the setting for a number of films, most memorably Merchant Ivory's adaptation of E M Forster's A Room With A View (1985) and more recently Zeffirelli's Tea with Mussolini (1999), Up At The Villa (2000), starring Kristin Scott Thomas, and Hannibal (2001), directed by Ridley Scott and starring Anthony Hopkins and Julianne Moore. The surrounding area is equally popular: the Tuscan town of Cortona, for example, featured in Audrey Wells' Under the Tuscan Sun (2003), starring Diane Lane. Such is the demand for picturesque Tuscan locations that the region has recently set up its own film commission to capitalise on promotional opportunities.
The cinema is heavily patronised in the city and for those who speak Italian, there is a real treat in store at the Odeon Cinehall (tel: (055) 214 068 or 295 051; website: www.cinehall.it), a stunning art nouveau theatre in Piazza Strozzi. Original language films are also shown. English speakers can take a trip to the Goldoni, Via Serragli 109 (tel: (055) 222 437), where original-language films are shown one day a week. More original language films are shown on Thursday at Cinema Fulgor, Via Maso Finiguerra (tel: (055) 238 1881; website: www.staseraalcinema.it). The largest cinema is the multiplex Cinema Warner Village Il Magnifico, on the outskirts of Florence at Via del Cavallaccio (tel: (055) 787 0000; website: www.warnervillage.it).
Literary Notes: Writers, poets and bored aristocrats have poured into this city, eager to discover its mythical reputation. Romantics like Byron and Shelley were enraptured by the abundance of beauty, sighing almost as much over the picturesque peasants as they did over the architecture. As citizens of Florence, Dante (1265-1321) and Machiavelli (1469-1527) were less dewy-eyed. Dante called it a ‘city of self-made men and fast-got gain' and consigned most of his contemporaries to hell in his masterwork, the Divine Comedy (completed in 1321). Machiavelli, who like Dante was exiled from the city, is best known for his study of devious politics in The Prince (written in 1513, published c.1532), learnt first-hand in the service of the Medici. Boccaccio (1313-75), who wrote the Decameron (1353), added little to the city, except a reputation for bawdy humour. But it was the court painter Giorgio Vasari (1511-74), who really opened the door to life in Renaissance Florence, with his artistic biography, Lives of the Artists (1550).
Henry James' (1843-1916) laconic insight came much later, drawing back the romantic conceit and presenting an altogether darker vision of Italy, in such novels as The Portrait of A Lady (1881). A collection of essays written while travelling in Italy between 1872 and 1909 can be found in his book Italian Hours (1909). E M Forster's (1879-1970) tale of knotted passions in A Room With A View (1908) has also carried Florence onto the silver screen.
Tours of Florence

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