Second only to culture in the city comes shopping. Florence has been a centre of craftsmanship since the Middle Ages, when shoemakers and goldsmiths were accorded the same status as artists and sculptors. Today, the city remains famous for its high-quality leather produce, goldsmiths and marbled paper. Artisans are still seen plying their trade in workshops all over the city. The area around Santa Croce is home to the city's leather-makers, while the Oltrarno is cluttered with the workshops of local gold and silversmiths - although the Ponte Vecchio is home to the glitzier of such shops.

Designer boutiques cluster around the Via de' Tornabuoni and Via Calzaiuoli, where Versace, Ferragamo, Gucci, Max Mara and Prada all have stores. Other stores here are Locman, for watches, Tod's and Hogan for shoes and handbags, and Fani for jewellery. Fashion aficionados should also visit Via della Vigna Nuova where Dolce e Gabbana and Mont Blanc are located, and Piazza degli Strozzi for Louis Vuitton and Escada.

The more frugal can find copies in the open-air San Lorenzo Market, in Piazza San Lorenzo, northwest of the Duomo, which takes place every day, except for Mondays in winter. Leather belts and bags, silk scarves and soft wool jerseys can be picked up for a song - although it is advisable for shoppers to check the quality before buying.

Nearby stands the covered food market, which is open Monday to Saturday 0700-1400. Bursting with olives, hams, cheeses and fresh vegetables, it is the perfect place to buy a picnic or just indulge a love of grub. The flea market at Piazza dei Ciompi specialises in antiques and collectable junk and provides an enjoyable rummage for the bargain-hunter. It is open every day 0900-1930 except for Sundays and Mondays in winter.

Specialist shops worth a visit include the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via Scala 16. Housed in a frescoed chapel, this old-fashioned chemist was founded by monks in the 17th century. Lotions, potions and herbal remedies abound in elegant packaging. More fascinating old remedies are at Alessandro Bizzarri, Via Condotta 32r, a 19th-century shop with ancient bottles filled with herbs, oils, spices and old Florentine remedies.

Handmade shoes created in time-honoured tradition are available for purchase at Francesco, Via Santo Spirito 62r, while Pineider, Piazza della Signoria 13r, is considered the most exclusive stationers in all Italy, having designed calling cards for Napoleon, Byron and Maria Callas, among others.

As a general rule, shops open 0930-1300 and 1530-1930 or 2000, although larger department stores and supermarkets may stay open throughout the day. Food shops are usually closed on Wednesday afternoons, or Saturday afternoons in the summer. Clothes shops are often closed on Monday mornings. There is limited opening on Sunday.

Sales tax is 12 to 14%. It can rise to 20%, depending on the value of goods purchased. Non-EU citizens should retain receipts for goods over €155 (bought in one shop, in one day) to reclaim their VAT (IVA). Global Refund (tel: (0331) 283 555; website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information on obtaining a tax refund for goods purchased in Italy.