The gateway to the south, the populous industrial capital of Tamil Nadu is where the history of British settlement in India has ancient roots. This has resulted in some splendidly monumental municipal buildings and a number of broad avenues and gardens. But Chennai's history stretches way beyond the British presence, with its resourceful citizens actively engaging in trade with the Chinese, Romans, Greeks and others more than 2,000 years ago. 

Still retaining much of its traditional charm, this bustling city, formerly called Madras, provides a captivating  insight into southern heritage. Chennai is proud of its Tamil culture and in many ways is still traditionally conservative, lacking the cosmopolitan flavour (and nightlife) of Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Delhi.

Music, dance and many other art forms from south India are widespread in Chennai and the Tamil film industry is huge. Religious heritage has left its mark with old churches, ancient temples and of course the wonderful shore temple of Mamallapuram, under two hours' drive away.

Chennai has grown dramatically over the past few decades and has enjoyed marked economic growth in recent years, thanks mainly to a booming IT industry. Today, Chennai sprawls out in all directions over the flat land along the coast and up the river valley and feels somewhat uncentred and chaotic as new shopping malls and modern skyrises spring up, residential districts spread, and squatter settlements are scattered throughout.

Heavy monsoonal rain can be a  big problem in the region, and Chennai has often suffered destruction and chaos as a result. Roads may flood and transport can be disrupted. The devastating tsunami of 2004 hit Tamil Nadu and affected some of the settlements on the beach in the city, however most areas have now been repaired. Chennai sees two rainy periods; around September to December and June to August. Weather in the summer is uncomfortably hot and always humid; best time to visit is December to March.