Chennai's after-dark party scene is curbed by laws that prohibit bars and nightclubs operating beyond midnight, although some do stay open a little longer. Shame, as there are some fabulous venues around, although a fraction of the number seen in Mumbai, Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Delhi. Of the few decent bars and clubs, most are in the 5-star hotels. Many nightclubs have a cover charge (usually only on weekends), a smart-dress code (no shorts, singlet tops or scruffy attire) and may only allow couples (ie not single males).

Zara's, 74 Cathedral Road, is considered one of the hippest places to be, a tapas bar appreciated as much for its 'Spanish short eats' as its luscious cocktails and funky music; busy on Friday and Saturday nights. The dark, sexy Leather Bar, The Park hotel, 601 Anna Salai, has olive suede walls, leather sofas and black leather floors; it attracts a very stylish crowd, and plays some very danceable music. For a real boogie, head upstairs to the ever so trendy Pasha's, The Park hotel, 601 Anna Salai, another magnet for Chennai's beautiful people.

Bike &  Barrel, Residency Towers hotel, Sir Thyagaraya Nagar Road, is a cheerful bar with a lively atmosphere, adorned with (you've guessed it) barrels for tables and a huge motorbike suspended from the ceiling. Geoffrey's, Hotel Radha Park Inn, 171 Jawaharlal Nehru Salai, is a little more low-key and congenial for women on their own, while Dublin, ITC Hotel Park Sheraton & Towers, 132 TTK Road, is an Irish-style bar with separate sections, some quiet, some a little more raucous, to suit the mood. Last but not least, Durrant's, Sheraton Chola, 10 Cathedral Road, is small, civilised and comfortable for a leisurely drink.