Athens' busiest shopping street is the pedestrianised Ermou, off Syntagma Square, where shoppers can pick up the season's latest souvenirs, clothing and accessories. The most upmarket shopping district in Athens is nearby Kolonáki, where designer boutiques (such as the Italian Versace and the celebrated Greek talent Eleftheriades) rub shoulders with coffee shops and chic restaurants. This area includes Tsakalof, one of the most expensive streets in the world. Avid shoppers will find a large shopping mall, called The Mall, in the northern suburb of Maroussi. However, no massive retail emporiums taint the shopping scene in the city centre.

The city's best bookshop is the vast seven-storey Eleftheroudakis on Panepistimiou, which stocks an excellent selection of English-language fiction, non-fiction and travel guides.

There is a long tradition of silver and gold craftsmanship in Athens and jewellery made here can be of a particularly high quality. Jewellers are concentrated in chic Kolonáki, with the expensive international outlets, such as Bulgari, lining Voukourestiou, while up-and-coming Greek designers, such as Elena Votsi, have shops in the surrounding side streets.

Other good-value items include spirits, ceramics and leather goods. Typical Greek gifts include hand-woven rugs, known as flokati, copper coffee pots, virgin olive oil and honey, all of which can be found in the souvenir shops in Pláka. In Athens, there is a big market in reproductions of museum pieces and religious icons - the best places for visitors to buy these are at the shops in the museums themselves.

In the Monastiráki area, on the edge of Pláka, shops sell everything from combat army boots and second-hand books to fake designer sunglasses and ancient coins. Shops open out directly onto the street, bazaar style, while Sundays bring the Monastiráki Flea Market, 0800-1400, where goods range from carefully restored antique furniture to rather dubious bric-a-brac. Kentrikí Agorá (Central Market) is housed in a huge 19th-century metal structure near Omonia Square and is open early morning to early evening, often taking a break for siesta during summer. It sells fish, meat and fresh produce. Smaller markets radiate out from the central building. Household items, fresh fruit and vegetables are sold weekly in Laiki (People's Markets) all over Athens.

Shops generally open Monday and Wednesday 0900-1430, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 0900-1330 and 1730-2030 and Saturday 0900-1500 (though some of the larger shops now stay open till 1700 Saturdays). Small, family-run shops may stay open as late as 2200, for the sale of food, drinks and newspapers. Bargains can be snapped up at the sales in August and February. Haggling is standard practice in the tourist areas of Athens and is essential in order to avoid paying extortionate prices.

Visitors from outside the European Union who have been in Greece for less than three months can claim back VAT of up to 18% on purchases over €120. A ‘tax-free cheque' will be issued in the shop to be presented along with the receipt to customs when leaving the county. Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide more information.