There are two types of buses that operate around town, known as guaguas (‘bus') and articulados (long, articulated buses). Bus services have improved immeasurably recently, with new vehicles, more frequent service and expanded schedules. Although bus routes and schedules remain unpublished, novel new signs at bus stops indicate routes served. Most visitors avoid this form of transport in Havana unless they are familiar with the routes and bus etiquette. For instance, there's a strict system of queuing and visitors should make sure they are at the end of the queue by asking for ‘el ultimo' (the last one). The fare is payable on board. The service operates around the clock but there are very few buses in the middle of the night.

There are two categories of taxis in Havana: those for tourists, which charge in Convertible Pesos (CUC), and local taxis, which accept Cuban Pesos (also known as Moneda Nacional - MN). Official tourist taxis are numerous and comfortable (i.e. air conditioned). Taxis can be flagged down in the street or found waiting outside the main hotels. Rates are about CUC1 per kilometre, and the meter should be turned on at the start of the journey, though in practice drivers often negotiate an off-meter fare. Visitors should note that there is a premium for taxis such as Mercedes Benz'. Tipping about 10% of the fare is always appreciated for good service. Coco taxis are yellow, three-wheeled vehicles carrying up to three people; they're about half the price of regular taxis; you can contract them by day. Reputable firms are: Fénix (tel: (7) 866 6666), Panataxi (tel: (7) 855 5555) and Taxi OK (Grupo Transtur) (tel: (7) 877 6666; website: www.transtur.cu).

Many car owners in Cuba act as freelance taxis, but these are unofficial and passengers should bargain aggressively to avoid being overcharged. If you fancy a ride in a beautiful old American car, Gran Car (tel: (7) 873 5705) runs a fleet of lovingly restored antique cars (including convertibles) serving as taxis.

Bicitaxis
A pleasant way to move around the city is to hire a two-seater bicitaxi, which are similar to Asian rickshaws with the driver pedalling from the front. There is no need to look for them as the drivers solicit tourists continuously, seemingly unable to believe that anybody would choose to walk. Rates are similar to normal taxis (CUC1 per kilometre).

The volume of traffic in Havana is increasing rapidly and motorists will find that driving in the city can be a nerve-racking experience. The system at traffic lights (when they are working) is different from other countries - a flashing amber light means proceed with caution. Unless expressly prohibited, it's permitted to right on a red light. Road signage is improving, but still wanting. The grid system of roads in Havana makes it straightforward to negotiate the city, but the biggest hazard is the large numbers of cyclists, pedestrians and dogs meandering along, often in the middle of the road. Night driving is particularly difficult as most cyclists ride without lights, street lighting is limited and there are many unmarked potholes. Drunk drivers are another hazard.

Parking is relatively straightforward, however, as most hotels have car parks for use by their guests, although there is generally a charge for this facility. There are also few parking restrictions around the city, so this is not a problem. However, at hotels where there is no secured parking, it is worth paying the doorman a small fee to keep an eye on the vehicle if parking overnight. Leaving valuables in hire cars should be avoided since the special number plates make it obvious they're being driven by a tourist.

Most car hire companies have desks at the airport, including Rex (tel: (7) 642 6074, Cubacar (tel: (7) 649 9800), and Havanautos (tel: (7) 649 5195). Car hire desks are also ubiquitous in the bigger hotels. Companies in the Vedado district include: Mi Car (tel: (7) 836 2020) and Havanautos (tel: (7) 838 4679) at the Habana Libre Hotel.  Rex and Havanautos (tel: (7) 836 4766) both have large offices on the Malecón at Callle Línea (tel: (7) 836 7788), Cubacar (tel: (7) 836 5910) and Mi Car (tel: (7) 835 7597) at the National Hotel and Transtur (tel: (7) 204 3236) at the Melía Habana Hotel. Companies in Old Havana include: Havanautos (tel: (7) 866 6507) at Parque Central Hotel and Rex (tel: (7) 868 1000) at the Saratoga Hotel.

Hiring a car is the easiest option for visiting places outside Havana, especially those beyond the Víazul bus routes. However, it is an expensive way to move around Havana itself and most people prefer taxis.

The minimum age for hiring a car is 21 years. An International Driving Permit is not required, a valid national licence is sufficient. The purchase of insurance can only be arranged locally, and it is possible to opt to pay a large deposit, in lieu of insurance, which is refundable if the car is returned undamaged. It is worth noting that a driver involved in an accident is judged guilty until proved innocent.

The car hire companies in Cuba are all local, although car models for hire are Japanese, Korean or French. Since all parts have to be imported, draining hard currency reserves, standards are not always what a visitor would expect. Before driving any distance, it is advisable to check for any damage and that all parts, such as windscreen wipers, lights, spare tires and so on, are in good working order. Luxury cars - BMWs, Audis and the like - are available for hire at Rex.

Some hotels hire bicycles for about CUC7 per day and this is a convenient way to get around, although not recommended after dark. Again, bicycles for hire are imported and are not always well maintained. The state of the streets is also not good - with potholes causing problems, especially at night. Mopeds can be hired in the beach resorts but are strictly for use locally.