Old Havana (La Habana Vieja) is best explored on foot to take full advantage of the glorious Spanish colonial architecture, increasingly under restoration. Visitors can easily occupy an afternoon or two meandering through the narrow streets and around the shady plazas finding their own favourite spots.

There will always be something happening to catch the eye - pull up a bar stool or cafe table and watch the colourful pageant happen by. Museum-lovers will be spoilt for choice as more and more open each year, many in wonderful old buildings.

While Old Havana never fails to charm, it would be a pity to neglect other areas of the city, such as Vedado, the leafy district where gambling and good living once ruled.

La Rampa, Vedado's main street, runs from the Habana Libre, (the Havana Hilton for a fleeting moment after it was built - the revolutionary government commandeered it shortly after 1959) down to the Malecón. La Rampa is surrounded by many fine examples of art deco and eclectic architecture, not least the imposing Hotel Nacional and Coppelia ice cream parlour. To the west of the city is the upmarket seaside district of Miramar, bisected by wide, tree-lined Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) and flanked by eye-popping mansions now restored and used as government offices, by joint-venture companies and embassies.

A good overview of the city, including the iconic sculpture of Che Guevara on the side of the Ministry of the Interior, can be had from the observatory atop the José Martí Memorial in La Plaza de la Revolución (Revolution Square).

A stroll along the Malecón, the famous seafront walk, which stretches almost the length of Havana, is a must. Here, old and young fish during the day and courting couples take their paseo (promenade) at night. The Malecón also provides a wonderful view of Havana's cityscape, especially at sunrise or sunset. For a different, perhaps even more brilliant perspective, view the city from the giant Cristo (Jesus Christ) statue across the bay or the Morro-Cabaña nearby.

The following travel agencies are all operated by the Cuban government and provide traveller information:

Cubatur
Calle 23 corner of Calle L, Vedado
Tel: (7) 833 3142 or 834 4111.
Website: www.cubatur.cu

Cubanacán
Calle 68, 503, corner of 5th Avenue, Playa
Tel: (7) 204 1658 or 1892.
Website: www.cubanacan.cu

Havanatur
Calle 3RA corner Calle 74, Miramar
Tel: (7) 201 9800.
Website: www.havanatur.cu

Infotur
Obispo 524, Habana Vieja
Tel: 866 3333.
Website: www.infotur.cu

Information is also available online (website: www.cubatravel.cu) and at the airport (Terminal Three) (tel: (7) 642 6101).

There are currently no tourist passes available in Havana.