Once famous for bargain electronics and imitation brand names, Hong Kong is no longer as cheap as it once was and prices are now closer to European or American averages if not higher. Real bargain hunters would be better off going to Bangkok or mainland China. Shops selling Chinese art objects and souvenirs cluster around the escalator up to the Mid-Levels and nearby Cat Street. More expensive antiques, art and collectibles can be found along Hollywood Road. However, any bargain hunter also planning to visit mainland China should do their research in Hong Kong but save their purchases for north of the border. Within Hong Kong, Shanghai Tang, right by Central MTR station, is probably the best venue for quality Chinese goods - silks, fabrics, ornaments and furniture.

Mall rats in Hong Kong have plenty of warrens to choose from. The swishest of the lot, IFC Mall in Central, has everything from Swarovski crystal to McDonald's burgers, Pacific Place, in Admiralty, has three floors of almost entirely luxury brands, while The Landmark and Prince's Arcade vie for the custom of chic Central.

Harbour City near the Star Ferry terminal in Kowloon is jam-packed with designer brands and boasts a flashy Lane Crawford, HK's own upmarket department store. Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong MTR station, in northern Kowloon, is worth the long trip from Central, for its variety and quality. Causeway Bay has the big Japanese department store, Sogo, and Hong Kong born Sino-influenced homeware store G.O.D as well as the towering Times Square. Fake watches and handbags, and tacky souvenirs are best purchased either along the hotel strip of Nathan Road on Kowloon Side or at Stanley Market. Nathan Road is also the place to find cheap tailors but expect to bargain hard.

There are computer superstores at Causeway Bay, Wan Chai and Mong Kok, full of tiny booths selling the silicon equivalent of Hong Kong tailoring and teenage hustlers pushing pirated software. However, for most electrical goods, there are worse places than the many branches of the Fortress chain.

Hong Kong has many markets. One of the most delightful is the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, on Prince Edward Road West, in Kowloon (see Further Distractions). Open daily 0700-2000, this market is primarily concerned with the sale of song birds. Nearby, on Tung Choi Street, is a flower market and a goldfish market. For gifts or collectibles the Jade Market at the junction of Kansan and Battery streets in You Ma Tie, Kowloon is a good option.

Standard opening hours are daily 0930-1900 and later in many cases. Hong Kongers bridle at the very idea of a sales tax, so visitors can forget about hoarding their receipts until the government finally decides to plug its deficit this way.