There are numerous private and state-owned city buses (tel: 0800 211 6068; website: www.iett.gov.tr/en) in Istanbul. Perpetual traffic jams mean that they can be slow, uncomfortable and crowded, with services coming to a virtual halt at midnight. A slick, underground (metro) system (website: www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr) runs between Taksim and 4. Levent, the city's busiest business district, and Aksaray to Esenler Otogar (main bus station) and Atatürk airport. A ‘funicular' metro takes the brief uphill run from Kabataş to Taksim and another short funicular climbs up to the Pierre Loti cafe and viewpoint from Eyüp on the Golden Horn.

There are three tramways on the European side. A quick, modern commuter tram runs from Kabataş, then over the Galata bridge through Eminönü, Sultanahmet, Beyazit (for the Grand Bazaar) and onto Zeytinburnu, from where another line continues to the outlying suburbs. Travellers heading for the bus station at Esenler Otogar should get off at Yusufpaşa and change to the Metro at Aksaray. A further line connects Edirne Gate with outlying northern suburbs. Across the Golden Horn, the Nostaljik Tramvay, clatters slowly the length of Istiklal Caddesi between Beyoğlu and Taksim Square in turn-of-the-century trams. It is connected to Karaköy by the Tünel underground, built in 1877 and touted as the shortest in the world, which runs up and down the steep hill between Karaköy and Istiklal Caddesi. A small circular tramway also runs on the Asian side between Kadiköy and Moda.

The light railway opened in 2002 and stops include Atatürk airport, the main bus station and Aksaray. A suburban line on the Asian side runs between Haydarpaşa and Gebze Banliyö. Information on these, plus Metro and tramway, is available (tel: (0212) 568 9970; website: www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr).

Passenger ferries (tel: (0212) 251 5000; website: www.tdi.com.tr) are by far the most pleasant way to travel in Istanbul. These zip back and forth across the waterways and serve many useful destinations. Tokens are bought from dockside kiosks. The primary routes run roughly every 20 minutes, between about 0700 and 2300, although the Eminönü-Kadiköy service stops at 2000. Ferries up the Golden Horn to Fener, Balat and Eyüp leave hourly. There are numerous docks along Eminönü quay, including ferries to Üsküdar, Kadiköy and Beşiktaş, and car ferries to the Prince's Islands. Services from Karaköy run to Haydarpaşa Station and the residential suburb of Kadiköy. The Deniz Otobusu (sea bus) (tel: (0212) 444 4436; website: www.ido.com.tr/en) offers a quicker and more expensive service.

A collection of small, private operators run the boat service between Üsküdar and Beşiktaş, which departs every 10 minutes during the day and whenever it fills up after midnight. Prices are the same as for the state ferries, although these accept cash only.

Bus, metro, ferry and tram tickets are cheap and usually available near the main stops, either from a kiosk, all main bus and metro stops and ferry terminals or a private seller, who adds about 25% to the price. An akbil (electronic debit tag) is available for purchase in advance, with a small returnable deposit (keep the receipt for a refund), from booths at major transport hubs like Taksim Square or Sirkeci. This is valid for a number of journeys, about 10% cheaper and more convenient for buses, ferries, the Tünel, and the metro, and allows free transfer between different forms of transport as long as the transfer is taken within 45 minutes. It can be recharged with any amount, either at the booths or at machines in metro stations. Two or more people may share the same akbil.

Yellow taxis can be hailed almost anywhere in the street. Tourists can minimise their chances of being ripped off by stopping taxis on the street rather than waiting for the lazy ones stationary outside hotels. Insist on the meter always being used, and do not accept the ‘meter not working' excuse. The night rate (2400-0600) is 50% more than the day rate, so visitors should check the correct rate is on the meter - ‘Gündüz' means day and ‘Gece' night, which should be digitally displayed. Alternatively, one light indicates the day meter and two lights the night meter. Tips are not expected unless special service has been provided and there is no extra charge for more than one person or for luggage.

The dolmuş is a large, yellow minibus, which runs a prescribed, short, circular route, such as Taksim-Beşiktaş and Taksim-Nisantasi, or a smaller, rackety blue minibus, which does longer journeys within the city and suburbs. Passengers can hail the latter almost anywhere and it will cram as many standing passengers in as can possibly fit. Payment is made to the driver upon boarding, costing a little more than the bus, especially for longer journeys.

Istanbul is home to bad traffic jams and worse driving; Turkey has 14 times more accidents than the UK - driving is thus not recommended to tourists. Despite the introduction of larger fines for motoring offences, indicators are still rarely used, drivers almost never stop at pedestrian crossings and tailgating is standard, with racing along the coastal strip on the Asian side leading to deaths despite a government campaign. It is not advisable for foreigners to drive in Istanbul unless strictly necessary.

Hiring a car here is not advised, due to traffic congestion and bad driving (see above). For the adventurous, car hire is provided by Avis (tel: (0212) 297 9610 (city) or (0212) 465 3455 (airport); website: www.avis.com.tr), Europcar (tel: (0212) 254 7710 (city) or (0212) 465 3695 (airport); website: www.europcar.com/tr) and Hertz (tel: (0212) 465 5999; website: www.hertz.com). Drivers must be over 21 years, have held a licence for at least one year and have a credit card to leave as a deposit. Basic insurance is covered in the cost, although visitors should make sure that Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) is included. Check the small print, especially regarding theft and fire damage.

Cycling in the city is not recommended and this is best left for resort destinations.