Beyoğlu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. In contrast, there are few decent nightlife haunts in tourist-dominated Sultanahmet. Although Beyoğlu developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul's huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district's recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Clubs and bars open, close and change name faster than you can say ‘Constantinople' but there is a growing trend for pricey, trendy rooftop bars especially around Beyoğlu and Ortaköy. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked.

As in most cities, drinks prices vary hugely. The tavernas or meyhanes are much cheaper than nightclubs or live music venues. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 at weekends. Visitors (especially lone men) are advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be very cautious if a new acquaintance suggests a venue as this is often the opening gambit for what might end up becoming an expensive scam. Many strip shows or belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women (usually prostitutes) who somehow end up at their table all night. For those seeking 24-hour nargileh (waterpipe), tea and backgammon, the string of cafes on Amerikan Pasaj, Tophane, near the Nusretiye mosque is popular with students and locals.

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Bars: The centre of nightlife is undoubtedly Beyoğlu, with a huge range of bars and clubs. Running off Istiklal Caddesi, the side-street Imam Adnan Sokak has several, like Kaktüs, many with tables outside. For a fun Friday or Saturday night with a mixed crowd, the third-floor Dogzstar Teras, Tosbağa Sokak 22, opens its roof in the summer and has live music and DJs. In the middle of Istiklal is ultra-cool rooftop terrace bar 360, on the top floor of Misir Apartment, overlooking the city. Lower down Istiklal is Nevizade Sokak, behind Çiçek Pasaj, a narrow boisterous street packed with bars, including the noisy, friendly Aslanim and Vera. Pano Saraphanesi (Wine Bar) on Hamalbaşi Caddesi near Galatasaray Square is a Greek-style taverna also selling decent food, with good selection of house wines and cheap beer. Also nearby is the bar of the Hotel Büyük Londra, at Meşrutiyet Caddesi 117, with its eccentric, 19th-century retro atmosphere. Nearer Tünel, the narrow streets around Asmalimescit have countless little bars. Over in the village of Ortaköy, up the Bosphorus, there are a range of upmarket bars and cafes for fashionistas, like the waterfront House Café on Salhane Sokak. Galata Bridge has several bars, Dersaadet, on Galata Bridge, close to the Karaköy shore, being one of the liveliest with live local music some nights.

Clubs: Istanbul's clubs range between a tiny dancefloor in a Beyoğlu pub, to swish terraces overlooking the Bosphorus where revellers go to be seen. The two most famous in the latter group are both in Ortakoy: Reina and Sortie (both on Muallim Naci Caddesi) have been likened to an entertainment emporium, with several bars, dancefloors and restaurants, and packed with celebs, models and millionaires. A little smaller is the equally trendy Anjelique, Muallim Naci Caddesi, Salhane Sokak 10, Ortakőy, spread over three floors and with a waterfront location; it is thronging in summer. Some plush clubs won't admit unaccompanied men. Babylon, Şehbender Sokak 3, off Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon.com.tr/english), has international DJs playing decent house, techno and international sounds as well as live music most nights. Karga, Kadife Sokak 16, Kadiköy (website: www.kargabar.org), is a chilled bar with local house and techno DJs and visiting bands. At weekends, there are several bars around Asmalimescit which have dancing till late.

Live Music: Babylon, Şehbender Sokak 3, off Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon.com.tr/english), puts on a wide range of international rock, world and latin artists as well as staging adventurous experimental and jazz concerts with local and international DJs and bands. Re-Fresh the Venue, Yil Sanayi Sitesi 100 (website: www.re-fresh.com.tr), and Parkorman, Büyükdere Caddesi (website: www.parkorman.com.tr), both in Maslak, are huge open-air venues for bands. Roxy, Aslan Yataği Sokak 3, Siraselviler-Taksim (website: www.roxy.com.tr), is a popular club, sometimes featuring foreign, Turkish and international pop and rock groups. The highly respected Nardis Jazz Club, Kuledibi Sokak 14, Galata (website: www.nardisjazz.com), has live musicians every night, ranging from classic, modern, fusion and ethnic jazz, and also serves food. Istanbul Jazz Centre, Salhane Sokak 10, Ortaköy (website: www.istanbuljazz.com), on Çirağan Caddesi next to the SAS Radisson Hotel, has international jazz artists performing most nights. Pozitif Promotions (website: www.pozitif.info), which runs Babylon, puts on the Efes Pilsner One Love Festival in June, the Akbank Jazz Festival in October and the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival in November and December.

For traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil, or classical romantic singing, especially around Beyoğlu.