It takes time to see Istanbul properly, since examples of its 2,000-year-old past can be difficult to find amid the chaos of the present. Most visitors go straight to the Sultanahmet district, the oldest part of the city, where there are at least some remnants of Byzantine Constantinople, such as Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya), among the splendours of Imperial Ottoman architecture, such as Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque. Sultanahmet is, however, a ‘tourist quarter' with the usual irritations of badgering touts and crowds of people and it is not the only historic part of the city.

The city centre, including the areas referred to as ‘the old city' and ‘the new city', which are separated by the estuary of the Golden Horn, is located on the European side of Istanbul, on the western side of the Bosphorus Strait.

Northwest of Sultanahmet lies the area of Beyazit, focused around the famous Kapali Çarsi (Covered or Grand Bazaar), while directly north from Sultanahmet, following the tramway, visitors will quickly hit the noisy, chaotic Eminönü docks on the Golden Horn.

From here, across the Galata Bridge, the area beginning at Karaköy port, running up to the landmark Galata Tower and then up through Beyoğlu and Taksim, was for centuries the designated residence of foreigners, including Italian, Greek and Levantine traders.

The Tünel climbs the hill from Karaköy port to the start of Istiklal Caddesi, a mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare leading up to Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul and home to much of its nightlife.

Mosques are almost always open to visitors, outside prayer times, although shorts and sleeveless clothes should not be worn. Shoes are left outside and women will be loaned a shawl to covers arms and hair. Visitors should not take photographs of women wearing the traditional black çarsaf, as this is forbidden. Parents of little boys in their full circumcision regalia will usually allow photos, although a small gift of money to the child is traditional.

Istanbul's museum system is confusing, as each is run by different ministries, municipal authorities or private owners. Entrance charges or opening hours can change suddenly. Check with tourist offices for up-to-date opening times and prices.

Turizm Danisma Burosu
Sultanahmet Meydani
Tel: (0212) 518 8754/1802.
Website: www.turizm.gov.tr or www.istanbul.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300.

There are no tourist passes currently available.