The Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888; website: www.egged.co.il/Eng), provides an inexpensive, frequent and efficient bus system within Jerusalem, as well as elsewhere. All routes are based out of the Central Bus Station (tel: (02) 530 4704) on Jaffa Road. Bus services run daily, except on the Sabbath (Friday afternoon to Saturday evening) or on Jewish religious holidays. Ordinary one-way tickets are purchased from the driver. All drivers speak at least enough English to deal with basic enquiries. Although Egged buses do not generally cross the ‘Green Line' into the West Bank, in Jerusalem they do serve the annexed areas which have become fully integrated districts of the city of Jerusalem, such as Gilo.

Bus 99, designed for tourists, follows a guided circular route through the city, with a commentary, passing almost every place of interest: a ticket allows you to get off wherever you wish, and continue your journey later with no extra charge. Although very inexpensive already, fares are discounted for many groups of people, including children, students the disabled and seniors. Visitors planning to spend more than a few days in Jerusalem should consider buying a ‘two-trip' ticket (15% discount) or a kartissiyah, a multi-fare punch card that offers 11 journeys for the price of 10. Other discount cards include hofshi yomi (‘freedom for a day') allowing you to ride buses all day long, and hofshi-hodshi (‘freedom for a month') that is good for one month of unlimited travel on urban buses. The price is equal to 40 ordinary one-way tickets.

Taxis, which look like ordinary cars with a coloured light displayed, are legally required to use a meter for every journey. However, travellers sometimes need to insist that the meter be turned on. Taxis can be hailed in the street or booked in advance. About 20 different taxi companies ply the streets of Jerusalem, including the popular Nesher Taxis (tel: (02) 623 1231), based at the intersection of Ben Yehuda Street and King George V Avenue in west Jerusalem, right across from the City Tower. Other recommended taxi companies are listed on the Jerusalem city website (www.jerusalem.muni.il). Fares are 25% higher at night and on Shabbat. Tipping is not usual, and not expected, although a very small gratuity of say 5% is sometimes given.

Sherut
An alternative to a taxi or bus is the popular sherut (literally ‘service', ie service taxi). These shared taxis are usually stretched Mercedes or minibuses, seating seven or 12, and they generally follow fixed public bus routes. However, they allow passengers to get on and off anywhere on the journey and may take alternative routes when necessary to dodge heavy traffic. Delays are rare and passengers should board quickly as drivers pull away sharply - both drivers and passengers are very impatient of anyone holding things up. Some sheruts run on Shabbat. Sherut fares are about the same as bus fares; Sheruts running regular set routes within the city are mostly only available in west Jerusalem, but will go to other areas on request (for a fee). They also serve as a popular way of travelling from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv or the airport.

Driving in all parts of Jerusalem, except the Old City, is fairly straightforward, although traffic on the main roads is bad and driving tends to be aggressive. For most sightseeing or getting around in the city centre (west Jerusalem), it is more enjoyable to walk or use local buses. Vehicles are only permitted to enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate, following the road through the Armenian Quarter, where there is limited parking. Alternatively, the Karta parking lot, below the walls of the Old City, near Jaffa Gate, has space for 5,000 vehicles and is open six days a week (closed on Shabbat).

Much of Israel uses the EasyPark smartcard system, an in-car electronic device (about the size of a pocket calculator), which automatically deducts the cost of street parking from the driver's credit or debit card and which can be read electronically by parking attendants. Most locals have one of these devices in their cars, but it is also possible to buy traditional parking cards. These can be obtained from street kiosks, post offices and petrol stations. The traditional parking card is a strip of paper with punched tabs for the hours of the day; drivers tear a tab to designate the month, day and hour they parked. Five different kerbside colour codes indicate what parking is permitted - blue and white means parking is allowed with pre-paid parking cards only. Visitors should not park where there is any other kerbside colour as they all represent restrictions and parking regulations are rigorously enforced.

The majority of car hire companies are located in central (ie west) Jerusalem. If a car is hired locally, fees are moderate; pre-booking through an agency abroad may result in a higher price. Rates tend to go up at peak holiday times. To hire a car, drivers must be over 24 years and in possession of a full national driving licence with at least two years' driving experience, insurance and an international credit card. Car hire companies will not allow hire cars to be driven into the Palestinian territory at the moment.

Eldan, 24 King David Street (tel: (02) 625 2151/2/3; website: www.eldan.co.il/en), is the main Israeli car hire company. It has a user-friendly website accepting secure online payment and offers substantial price discounts for Internet bookings. International companies include Avis, 22 King David Street (tel: (02) 624 9001; website: www.avis.co.il), Budget Rent-A-Car, 23 King David Street (tel: (02) 624 8991; website: www.budget.co.il) and Hertz, 19 King David Street (tel: (02) 623 1351; website: www.hertz.com).

Despite the hills and the traffic, cycling is popular in Jerusalem. However, bike hire in the city is almost unknown.