West Lake
Impossible to miss, this vast lake fringed by hills is Hangzhou's richest treasure. Best accessed via the paved esplanade in front of the Hyatt Regency Hotel on Hubin Road, grab a map and take your choice between exploring in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction (here's a clue, most local tourists go clockwise, and it can get very crowded at weekends). Allow at least one full day to enjoy the parks and temples around the lake. Many of the most historic attractions are dotted around the Beishan Road area, while the Hubin Road esplanade is a pleasant place to sit and watch the day, or early evening, go by.

Lingyin Temple
Known locally as Lingyin Si (Temple of the Soul's Retreat), this is one of China's largest and most spectacular Buddhist temples. The entrance is magnificent, passing through shallow caves and grottos featuring over 400 Buddhist rock carvings, many dating from the 10th to 14th centuries. The incense-filled working temple boasts four grand halls, each more lavish and colourful than the last. The stand-out is the 12m- (39ft-) high Hall of the 500 Arhats, which features 500 human-sized sitting Buddhist saints, each holding his own symbol, arranged in the formation of a giant swastika.

1 Fayun Road
Free admission

Leifeng Pagoda
Halfway around the lake from downtown is the octagonal, five-storey Leifeng Pagoda. Originally built in 975 AD by Qian Hongchu, king of Wuyue, to celebrate the birth of a son, the structure has since been rebuilt. However, uncovered brick ruins of the original building are open for viewing. Climbing to the top floor yields fabulous views across the lake, islands, bridges and gardens - and the sprawling city beyond.

15 Nanshan Road
Admission charge

Baopu Taoist Temple
Located in leafy woods on Ge Hill, named after a famous Taoist master who lived here, this splendid Taoist temple is peaceful, colourful and charming. The only Taoist temple in Zhejiang province, it features incense smoke drifting around the courtyards, ornate carved wooden facades, and its upturned grey slate roofs echo a China rapidly receding into history.

Ge Hill (sometimes called Baoshi Hill)
Free admission.

Jiangnan Stone Garden
This tranquil Chinese water garden is a serene spot to sit, relax and reflect. Set amid a beautiful leafy backdrop, the garden features numerous pagodas, slate-capped whitewashed walls, arches and stone statues. The garden is landscaped around lakes and ponds. There's also a small restaurant and pleasant teahouse.

89 Beishan Road
Admission charge.