As the Hangzhou's historical centrepiece, West Lake is surrounded by attractive parks, pagodas and temples. The lake itself is beautiful, and cut in half by a broad causeway popular with walkers and cyclists. Here there are more gardens, shrines, bridges and places to catch the small wooden boats that cruise the lake. Leifeng Pagoda offers fabulous views across the lake and city beyond.

Most visitors understandably make a beeline for the Lingyin Temple, one of China's largest and best-preserved Buddhist temples. The Dragon Well, home to world-famous Longjing tea, makes for a pleasant excursion. Very popular is the hourly Dancing Music Fountains show at the Hubin Road esplanade, which features choreographed water spray and music - it's a little kitsch but rather impressive when illuminated at night.

Discovering Hangzhou means a lot of walking, but for some rest and relaxation, Xihu Tiandi is a leafy, lakeside dining and drinking built by the developers of Shanghai's Xintiandi. There are several good restaurants and cafes here, including possibly the most attractive Starbucks coffee house in the world.

Across the street, the lakefront Hubin Road shopping plaza features Swarovski, Hermes and Armani. Shoppers seeking traditional Hangzhou silks and souvenirs should head for Fenqi Road, a recreated Hangzhounese silk bazaar.

Hangzhou Municipal Tourist Information Centre
288 Yanan Road, near Jiangjun Road (across the street from Carrefour supermarket)
Tel: (571) 8792 5050.

The tourist information centre publishes a good English-language guide and city and lake maps, but staff are rather unhelpful and speak little English.

There are currently no tourist passes for sightseeing in Hangzhou.