The heart of the capital is wrapped around two harbours: Mutrah and Muscat. Mutrah, where the budget hotels are located, is famous for its crescent of merchant houses with overhanging balconies, its long corniche, fish market, new museum dedicated to Muscat (Bait al-Baranda) and its busy and labyrinthine souk. 

Old Muscat, just a few kilometres farther round the coast, comprises mostly the Sultan's Palace and the Diwan (buildings associated with royal governance). Although visitors are not able to enter these buildings, it is an attractive area to walk round and there's an important museum (Beyt az-Zubair) and one of the best commercial art galleries in Muscat (Bait Muzna Gallery).

Inland Ruwi, sometimes dubbed 'Little India' on account of the expat communities here, is the commercial and banking sector and the location of ONTC's bus terminus. Farther into the suburbs, the vicinity of Qurm and neighbouring Shatti al-Qurm is home to luxury hotels, beaches, Qurm Natural Park, shopping malls, embassies and the Grand Mosque.

There are no tourist information centres as such but you can pick up some brochures from the helpful desk at the Ministry of Tourism (tel: 24 588 831; website: www.omantourism.gov.om) in Al-Ghubra, on the opposite side of the dual carriageway to the Grand Mosque. There is some useful tourist information about Muscat on their website.

Alternatively, National Travel & Tourism (NTT), Ar-Rumaylah St, Wattayah (tel: 24 660 376; website: www.nttoman.com) acts as an unofficial tourist desk.

There are currently no passes for sightseeing in Muscat.