The town centre is relatively compact and it is possible to walk between temples and other sights. However, a quicker and more preferable means of travel is by bicycle (see Bicycle Hire below).

Public transport in Chiang Mai is cheap and reasonably efficient, comprising a network of buses, songthaews (see below) and other small carriers. A simple air-conditioned bus system has started in the city and covers five routes around the main destinations. Route numbers are displayed in western numerals and the fare is paid to the conductor depending on your destination. Most free newspapers include a map of the routes.

Metered taxis can be flagged down in the street or pre-booked (tel: (053) 279 291). Songthaews, basic pick-up trucks with two facing benches in the back, act as share-taxis, collecting people heading in roughly the same direction and dropping them off where required. There are also masses of three-wheeled, open-sided, two-stroke tuk-tuks vying for business. Quick and safer than you'd imagine, these are handy, exhilarating ways of scooting about the city, although hard bargaining for the fare is expected. A handful of samlors (tricycle rickshaws), also still operate in the city centre.

Thais drive on the left. The official speed limit is 60kph (37mph) in towns and cities and 90kph (56mph) outside them. Other rules are largely ignored. However, a right indicator flashing on a vehicle ahead of you usually means don't overtake, whilst a left flashing indicator means that it is safe to do so. An oncoming vehicle flashing its headlights means that it doesn't intend to stop.

Cars can be hired from outlets in the Tha Pae Gate area. Reliable outfits offering vehicles, insurance and breakdown cover include Journey, 283 Thanon Tha Pae (tel: (053) 208 787; website: www.journeycnx.com ), and North Wheels, 70/4-8 Thanon Chaiyapoom (tel: (053) 874 478; website: www.northwheels.com). International agencies include Avis, at ChiangMai Airport (tel: (053) 922 130; website: www.avis.com) and Royal Princess Hotel, 112 Thanon Chang Klan (tel: (053) 281 033), and Budget, 201/2 Thanon Mahidol (tel: (053) 202 871; website: www.budget.com).

Foreigners need an international driver's licence to hire a car, although most companies will accept national licences, and the smaller agencies may not actually ask for any proof at all. International agencies will accept credit card details as security whilst small agencies may want a cash deposit and to hold on to your passport.

Bikes can be hired from several agencies on the road running alongside the eastern moat, or from Velocity at 177 Thanon Chang Phuak (tel: (053) 410 665), which also runs guided trips. If you'd prefer, motorbikes can be hired from Queen Bee, 5 Thanon Moonmuang, (tel: (053) 275 525; website: www.queen-bee.com) or Mr Mechanic, 4 Soi 5, Thanon Moonmuang (tel: (053) 214 7080).