The best places to find distinctive Granada artisanry such as beautiful, intricate marquetry boxes and trays, and traditional green-and-white ceramics with the pomegranate emblem, are Cuesta de Gomérez (the street leading up to the Alhambra), the Alcaicería (the old Moorish silk exchange converted to a shopping arcade), and Calle Calderería Nueva in the lower Albaicín.

Calderería Nueva also sells alternative goods such as natural cosmetics and attractive Moroccan lamps and mirrors, and is dotted with offbeat Asian-style tea houses. Good shops to check include Artesanía Carlos López, Alcaicería 10, and nearby Cerámica Fabre, Calle Pescadería.

For fashionable clothes and shoes head to Calle de los Mesones, a long, pedestrian street just south of the Alcaicería, or the busy streets fanning out from nearby Puerta Real, or El Corte Inglés department store on Carrera del Genil.

Shops are generally open from 1000 to 1330 and 1700 to 2030, though some, especially the bigger ones, forego the siesta.