Peruvians and 'gringos' can enjoy anything from salsa to Argentine rock in Lima. Things don't really get going until late, and the city's nightlife is most vibrant at the weekends. The heart of the city's nightlife is focused in Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco.

The live music bars and clubs around the Parque Kennedy and bars and discos in the Larcomar shopping mall (website: www.larcomar.com) dominate Miraflores nightlife. San Isidro offers a more sophisticated scene. The perennial hot spot is Barranco, which bursts into life on Thursday night and carries on until the early hours of Monday morning. Here a bar can fall out of favour within weeks, so it is always best to ask locals for guidance.

Limeños tend to dress up to go out. The smartest places have a dress code and nightclubs charge an entrance fee. There are no strict licensing laws in Peru, which means that children are allowed into most bars and cafes, although you must be over 18 to drink alcohol. Licensing hours are flexible and the most popular bars are open throughout the night, or for as long as there are customers.

Bars: For a taste of an old-fashioned Miraflores bar, head to Café Haiti, Avenida Diagonal 160. With its large terrace and smoked glass, it invokes memories of the Parisian boulevards. It is a good place to enjoy a pisco sour, before heading to the nearby cinema. O'Murphy's Irish Pub, Calle Schell 627, Miraflores, serves draught beer, hosts live music and has a dance floor.

An honest, spit-and-sawdust Barranco bar is Juanito's, Avenida Grau 274, serving jugs of beer and delicious sandwiches. The odd, often-inebriated wandering minstrel supplies the music. La Noche, Avenida Bolognesi 307, Barranco, just off the main square, is one of the most popular spots. Barranco is also home to several cheap, 'hole-in-the-wall' bars, favoured by students and die-hard drinkers, who swig beers and spirits until they can hardly stand.

Clubs: Bar Kitsch, Avenida Bolognesi 743, Barranco, is for disco lovers, who come to revel in the flowery wallpaper, the impromptu bar dancing and excellent cocktails. It gets busy on Friday and Saturday. Much larger and trendier is La Noche, Avenida Bolognesi 307, which has two bars and a stage for live music - for which there is a small entry fee.

In Miraflores, Santa Sede, block six of Avenida 28 de Julio, is the regular haunt of the young and bohemian. It plays a pleasing mix of pop and salsa. Before leaving Lima, you should sample at least one salsodromo (a salsa dance club) such as Kimbara, Avenida Republica de Panama 1401, La Victoria. La Huaka Beach Club, Km 97.5, Panamericana Sur, (website: www.lahuaka.com) is a popular club on the beach with DJs.

Live Music: Lima rocks at the weekend, although there is usually something going on during the week too. A mellow jazz evening on Monday and Saturday nights can be had at Jazz Zone, Avenida La Paz 656, Miraflores (website: www.jazzzoneperu.com), which lays on a variety of bands from blues to experimental jazz. La Casona de Barranco, Avenida Grau 329, Barranco, also offers good live jazz sessions on Monday nights and at the weekend. Brisas del Titicaca, Jirón Wakulski 168 (website: www.brisasdeltiticaca.com), is a touristy spot with good, local music and dancing from Wednesday to Saturday.