Road travel in Peru can be hazardous, due to reckless driving and the poor condition of the roads, many of which are dirt tracks. Car hire is also expensive (hiring a car with driver or a taxi is usually cheaper). Peru has more than 70,000km (18,641 miles) of roads, of which only one fifth are national highways. Roads are designated by a route and a number.

The main roads running the length of the country are the north-south Pan-American Highway, which is the main artery linking the towns along Peru's coast, and the Marginal Jungle Highway, which runs from the northern jungle almost to the Bolivian border. From the coast, heading inland is the Central Highway, which starts in Lima and runs up to the central highlands and down to the Chanchamayo jungle valley. Much of the Pan-American Highway is in good condition, as are the main routes up towards the Andes (but not within).

Several roads are tolled, including Pativilca-Huaraz, Lima-Pucusana, the highway around Lima and the Pan-American Highway between Tumbes and Lima. Motorcycles are exempt from tolls. Speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on motorways and on smaller roads are either 80kph (50mph) or 45kph (28mph). Few Peruvians seem to stick to these limits.

Wearing seat belts is mandatory in certain areas of Lima - to avoid a fine, always wear a seat belt. The maximum legal alcohol-to-blood ratio for driving is 0.08%, the same as the UK and most US states. On-the-spot fines are applied for drink-driving, speeding and other traffic offences, such as driving through a red light.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years.

The Touring and Automobile Club of Peru, Calle Cesar Vallejo 699, Lince (tel: (01) 441 0345), with offices in most provincial cities, is helpful and sells maps.

Emergency breakdown service: There is no general emergency breakdown number in Peru. Most car hire agencies have breakdown arrangements agreed with a particular insurance company.

Routes from the city: Most travellers choose to fly to other provincial capitals as journey times are long and roads not generally in good condition. The main road artery of Peru, the Pan-American Highway, runs the length of Peru's coastline. Highlights along it include Nazca (famous for its mysterious desert lines) and pretty Arequipa. It is highly inadvisable to travel to Cusco (a journey of around 24 hours across the Andes) by either car or bus.

Driving times to Lima: From Cusco - 24 hours; Puno - 24 hours; Arequipa - 14 hours; Nazca - 6 hours.

Coach services: Ormeño, Avenida Javier Prado Este 1059, La Victoria (tel: (01) 472 1710), is one of the few reliable bus companies, offering regular weekly services to Quito (journey time - 30 hours) and Santiago (journey time - 54 hours). Many intercity buses leave from one of the main bus terminals between the Hotel Sheraton and Parque Universitario in the centre, or in the district of La Victoria along Avenida 28 de Julio and Prolongacion Huanuco. Other bus stations and companies are located in the suburbs. Cruz del Sur, Avenida Javier Prado 1109, San Isidro (tel: (01) 311 5050; website: www.cruzdelsur.com.pe), offers good, regular services to Cusco, Puno and Arequipa and other major destinations.