Lima is sprawling and polluted, and without the immediate appeal of most capital cities. Many of its buildings are visibly crumbling, but the compact, historic heart is a UNESCO site. This is where many of the city's museums, churches and colonial treasures are conveniently located, and is best explored on foot.

Walking tours usually start in Plaza de Armas, which was the city's main meeting point and marketplace. Around 400 years ago, bullfights were held in this square - the current bullring is a 10-minute walk away.

Dominating the square is the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace), on the site of the original palace built by Lima's founder, Pizarro. Also here is the cathedral, rebuilt in 1758, after an earthquake destroyed the original building. Pizarro's daughter helped pay for the original cathedral, on condition that her father was buried in the crypt.

Nearby, the Pasaje Nicolas de Ribera el Viejo is home to elegant cafes. The Palacio Torre Tagle, with its Moorish-influenced wooden balconies, is one of the city's most beautiful Spanish colonial mansions.

A few blocks east lies Plaza Bolivar, with the fascinating Museo de la Inquisicion (Spanish Inquisition Museum). Other city centre highlights include the Museo de la Nación (National Museum), for an overview of Peru's archaeological riches and the Museo de Oro del Perú (Gold Museum of Peru), with its collection of stunning gold artefacts.

Away from the centre lie the fashionable seaside suburbs of Miraflores and San Isidro, while the suburb of Barranco offers lively, bohemian bars. Miraflores even has its own US-style shopping mall, Larco Mar, with ten-pin bowling, a multiplex cinema, snack bars, restaurants, discos and live music. The mall is situated right on the cliffs overlooking the sea.

PromPerú
Edificio Mitinci, Calle Uno, 14th floor, San Isidro
Tel: (01) 224 3279.
Website: www.peru.info/perueng.asp

The office is PromPerú's administrative headquarters and the information it provides is generally not as useful as that found on the website.

The South American Explorers Club, Calle Piura 135, Miraflores (tel: (01) 445 3306; website: www.saexplorers.org) provides invaluable trip planning advice and use of clubhouses to its members.

There are no tourist passes currently available in Lima.