With whole areas of the city being turned over to the pursuit of pleasure and traffic jams from 0400-0500 at the weekend (and increasingly during the week as well), it is obvious that Lisbon is a city that takes its nightlife seriously. Traditionally, the nightlife centre has been Bairro Alto, with its fado clubs, traditional, canteen-style bars and upscale discos. The bars are often open as late as 0400. The minimum age for purchasing alcohol is 16 years.

Much of the action has moved on to the Docas (Docks) district, situated just to the east of Ponte 25 de Abril. One bar after another occupies a row of converted warehouses at the Doca de Santo Amaro. Back towards the city, the Doca de Alcântara is another favourite with Lisbon's moneyed professionals and the 'in' crowd, although there have recently been problems with drugs that have led to tough and off-putting door policies. A current en vogue spot is around raffish Santa Apolonia, although that is principally driven the by the success of ϋber club Lux (see Clubs).

Bars: For a bar with a view head to the lofty and very slick Panorama at the Sheraton, Rua Latino Coelho. Along the row of buildings east of Ponte 25 de Abril, you can take your pick of the competing bars, including the popular Celtas Iberos Irish Bar, Doca de Santo Amaro. A funky new venue in Belém is A Margem, a steel and glass bar/cafe creation right on the water's edge between the Monument to the Discoveries and the Torre de Belém.

Finding a place in Bairro Alto is not a problem as you are spoilt for choice - the best thing to do is to walk uphill from the Praça Luís de Camões, just to the west of the Chiado metro station. Clube da Esquina, Rua da Barroca 30, is a trendy, minimalist bar that is popular with the local cool crowd. Rua da Atalaia is one of the more lively streets and the welcoming Portas Largas, Rua da Atalaia 105, is a good place to start. Di Vino, Rua da Atalaia 160, is a haven for wine lovers, with occasional live music, while the Instituto do Vinho do Porto, Rua de Sao Pedro, claims to have over 300 different varieties of port.

Arroz Doce, Rua de Sao Pedro 117-119, is a traditional canteen-style bar and a good place to order a pontapé na cona (a sweet, usually dark, beer); occasional fado performances round off the perfect Lisbon evening. One new contender for the Biarro Alto's hippest spot is Bedroom, Rua do Norte 86, a gorgeous new style bar/club with smooth sofas, chairs and, yes, beds. Go early to avoid one of the most restrictive door policies in Lisbon.

Clubs: There are a number of clubs around Doca de Alcântara. Queens, Doca de Alcântara, attracts boys and girls of all persuasions. Kremlin, Rua Escadinhas da Praia 5, and nearby Kapital, Avenida 24 de Julho 68, are both popular - the former plays techno in Egyptian-style surroundings, while the latter has three floors, each with a different style. The city's hottest spot is still the ultra stylish Lux (website: www.luxfragil.com), Rua Gustavo Matos Sequeira 42, with John Malkovich said to be among those behind the funky mega-club. A welcome new addition is the rooftop wine bar with its funky giant shoe installation.

Live Music: Fado is a form of music that developed in Lisbon's sailor bars during the late 18th century. It is a mournful, romantic singing style that fits somewhere between blues and flamenco and bemoans the death of Portugal's great Golden Age. These traditional sounds are best heard at one of the casa de fado, from about 2100-2200. Fado houses include Adega Machado, Rua Norte 91, Adega Mesquita, Rua Diàrio de Noctícias 107, A Severa, Rua das Gàveas 51-61 and Clube de Fado, Rua Sao João da Praça 92-94.

Hot Clube de Portugal, Praça de Alegria 38-39 (website: www.hcp.pt), is a favourite for jazz sessions. For African and Brazilian music, try Lontra, Rua de São Bento 157, in Bairro Alto, and Pê Sujo, Rua Madalena 102-8, near the cathedral in the Alfama district. Large concerts can be seen at the Pavilhão Atlântico, Rossio dos Olivais (website: www.pavilhaoatlantico.pt), in the Parque das Nações (see Key Attractions).