Out of town mega malls may be gradually strangling many of Lisbon's smaller shops but the Baixa quarter still thrives. Pricier outlets can be found on Avenida da Liberdade and in the attractive Chiado district, to the west above Baixa. Local handicrafts include baskets and other objects made of wicker, copper utensils, embroideries and lace, pottery and other ceramics. Centro Colombo is the largest shopping centre on the Iberian Peninsula. Competitors include the Amoreiras Shopping Centre, Rua Carlos Alberta da Mota Pinto, and the Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama, at the Parque das Nações.

Lisbon has always been renowned for conservative dress but the renaissance of the city has also translated into a wave of new funky fashion stores. Pick of the bunch are Agencia, Rua do Norte 117, a 70s-style shop with a hairdresser and a bar, Fashion Gallery Atelier, Rua do Salitre 169, with its outrageous designs, and Godzilla, Rua dos Douradores 120, with its cutting edge club gear.

Lisbon's most famous market is the Feira da Ladra (Thieves' Market), which springs up Monday to Saturday 0900-1900 on the Campo de Santa Clara, packed with all sorts of bric-a-brac - yet another excuse for visitors to take tram 28.

The Lisboa Shopping Card, available from tourist offices, offers discounts at more than 200 stores in the city. There is a sales tax of 19% included in prices. Part of this may be reclaimed by visitors who are leaving the EU. Travellers wishing to take advantage of this must ask for a refund cheque for more expensive purchases at the time of purchase (available at participating stores only). The cheque must be stamped by customs and a refund claimed before passing through passport control (website: www.globalrefund.com).  Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0900-1300 and 1500-1900 and Saturday 0900-1300. Shopping centres are open daily 1000-2300/2400.