Auckland teems with life, from the vibrant waterfront (not for nothing is it called the ‘City of Sails') through the busy, ever-expanding Downtown district to the highly individual suburbs and glorious beaches. Auckland may not be New Zealand's capital (a distinction going to Wellington) but it's New Zealand's largest city and, along with Christchurch on the South Island, the major gateway to the joys of this most diverse and beautiful country.

Just over 300km (190 miles) from the northern tip of the North Island, Auckland bestrides a narrow isthmus, the city's districts weaving their way around bays and harbours, large and small. Around the city are numerous rugged hills, reminders of the eruptions of the 48 volcanoes that created the isthmus some 50,000 years ago.

The first of many waves of Polynesian migrants are believed to have arrived in New Zealand over 1,000 years ago, but the Maori population was decimated following the arrival of Europeans in the 1820s. In 1840, the British bought land in the area from the local Maori tribe, for £55 and some blankets. Auckland was made the capital city of New Zealand, which it remained until 1865, when Wellington took over.

As well as the harbours and fertile land, Auckland's maritime climate is appealing. There may be occasional frosts during wintertime (June to August) but seldom anything too severe, while summer temperatures usually stay in the mid 20s Celsius (upper 70s Fahrenheit), although it can become quite humid.

Such a climate naturally leads to a healthy (and hedonistic) outdoor lifestyle. Although exact figures vary, it is said that there are more boats per capita here than in any other city in the world. There are over 500km (310 miles) of walking trails within Greater Auckland, as well as 22 leafy parks. But when the city palls, its inhabitants escape to the offshore Hauraki Gulf Islands, the Coromandel Peninsula or up the coast to another of the country's seaside beauty spots, the Bay of Islands.

Boats to the islands leave the ferry terminal, a part of Auckland's regenerated waterfront. A little east is Queen Elizabeth II Square, and running south of the square is Queen Street, the city's main thoroughfare, on which stands the impressive Auckland Town Hall.

Queen Street eventually reaches Karangahape Road, which everyone calls K Road. Between K Road and the waterfront, is the heart of Auckland City. To the southeast is the sophisticated Parnell district, with the Auckland Museum and Auckland Domain Park, while northwest of the centre is Herne Bay and Ponsonby - full of hip and happening bars and cafes.

Support for the aforementioned hedonistic outdoor lifestyle is provided by a prosperous economy, with tourism one of this country's biggest and fastest expanding earners - particularly since the film release of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Shot in New Zealand, the movies created an advantageous knock-on effect for the city's business and finance sectors, making Auckland a city in bloom, if not entirely booming.