Lyon is a real shopper's paradise. The area of the Presqu'île boasts the most attractive streets for shopping, such as rue Victor Hugo and rue de la République, where the big department stores like Printemps are located.

The rue du Président Herriot, with its elegant 19th-century buildings, makes an ideal setting for the luxury boutiques of Cartier, Hermès, Gucci or Louis Vuitton. Fine antiques and old books can be found on rue Auguste Comte or at La Cité des Antiquaires, 117 boulevard Stalingrad in Villeurbanne (website: www.cite-antiquaires.fr). Rue Auguste Comte is a lively street with some 80 shops devoted to antiques. Les Puces du Canal is Lyon's historical flea market. Located on the outskirts of Lyon at 1 rue du Canal in Villeurbanne, it is the largest market of second-hand goods in the Rhône-Alpes region. Open every Sunday from 0600-1300 (website: www.pucesducanal.com).

For furniture and home decoration stores, it is best for shoppers to go to cours de la Liberté. For casual shopping, Part-Dieu shopping centre is ideal and is one of Europe's largest, with over 200 stores, including the famous Galeries Lafayette.      

Chocolate is the best speciality gift available in the city. Although the Swiss and Belgians might take issue, it could be argued that Lyon has the finest chocolate factory in the world: Bernachon, 42 cours Franklin Roosevelt. Voisin (a chocolate seller for over 100 years) with its specialities such as ‘the Cushion' or the ‘the Quenelle', is possibly the most known of the chocolate makers in Lyon (website: www.chocolat-voisin.com). Bouillet, 15 place de la Croix Rousse and 14 rue des Archers, works wonders with ‘ganaches of chocolate' (jowls) and its famous macaroons.

To really understand the link between Lyon and good food, a visit to one of its major markets is a must. Every morning from Tuesday to Sunday, there is a market on quai St-Antoine on the banks of the river Saône and another market on boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, one of Lyon's liveliest districts. In the third arrondissement (district), 102 cours Lafayette, there is the covered market, Les Halles de Lyon, which is open every day. There is a craft market on quai Fulchiron on Sunday morning 0800-1300.

Most shops are usually open from Monday to Saturday between 0930 and 1930 but are closed on Sundays. Some small grocery stores are open on Sunday mornings. VAT (Value Added Tax) can vary between 5% and 19.6%, depending on the goods bought. Non-EU visitors can obtain a tax refund for purchases over €183, provided all the relevant receipts are retained. It is best for visitors to enquire with customs officials on arrival in France or Lyon, for specific details. The information service of the French Customs (tel: (04) 7277 3900) is useful for customs and VAT enquiries, as is Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com).