Metro Manila's public transport is a mix of light rail, buses, jeepneys and taxis. There are three light rails: LRT1, LRT2 (website: www.lrta.gov.ph) and MRT3 (website: www.dotcmrt3.gov.ph), all giving access to major destinations around the metropolis. Although the trains join at some point, ticketing is still separate (the effort to unify the ticketing is still under way). Trains generally run from 0500 until 2200.

LRT1 and MRT3 reserve the first car of the train exclusively to women, senior citizens and children. Security requires passengers to open their bags for a check at the entrance. During red alerts, guards require passengers to open gift-wrapped boxes. Watch out for pickpockets.

A project has started to extend MRT3 to connect to the northern end of LRT1, at Monumento in Caloocan, but this is not yet completed. Of the three trains, LRT2 is the best-maintained and least stressful ride. MRT3 has the worst-maintained trains; avoid these during the rush hours, as trains often break down and cars are jam-packed.

The colourful but controversial jeepneys are simultaneously famous and annoying. They are a testament to Filipino ingenuity: the first jeepneys were assembled out of broken vehicles left over by the US after WWII and repainted with a typical penchant for bright colours.

Today, they are decked with various bright and shiny stainless steel accoutrements with handmade artwork created from carefully sliced reflective stickers. Drivers often play blaring music and blow horns frequently. Most of the jeepneys are not well maintained and spew smoke in the streets. Some citizens have actually petitioned to ban them. Major routes in the city have jeepneys 24 hours a day, but late-night rides are not recommended for tourists.

Manila is served by a plethora of large and small private bus companies. There are no uniform bus passes. Local buses are useful for major roads, such as the EDSA, but are not allowed into most streets in the centre of town. Cost varies depending on destination and whether the bus is air conditioned - tickets are available from kiosks, stations and some shops. There are no bus schedules; most buses run from around 0500 until 2330 every day but EDSA has buses available round the clock, although tourists are advised against taking these.

Taxis, including the larger FX taxis (all-purpose utility vehicles) that can carry between seven and 10 people, can be flagged down almost anywhere in the city. Coupon taxis are available at the airport. Passengers should beware of being overcharged and should only travel if the driver uses the meter.

Reputable and trustworthy fleets include Avis (tel: (02) 831 2701), 24-7 Taxi (tel: (02) 642 3525), Basic (tel: (02) 900 1447), Dollar (tel: (02) 927 8718) and EMP (tel: (02) 293 5930). Some companies charge an additional booking fee of P50. Tipping is discretionary and usually handled by rounding up the fare to the nearest P10.

Driving behaviour in Manila has slowly improved in recent years, but visitors are still discouraged from driving on their own, as it is not for the faint-hearted. Most drivers change lanes without signalling. This is especially true for public buses, jeepneys and taxis. Buses may suddenly swing to the left, even from a stationary position. Some drivers will pass through the road shoulder, especially during traffic.

Watch out for Yellow Lanes - the outer lane of main roads marked with a yellow line and reserved only for public transport (vehicles with yellow licence plates). Driving inside Yellow Lanes is a traffic offence. A recent proliferation of careless motorcycle riders has also led to high traffic accident rates in Manila.

To alleviate severe congestion, Metro Manila imposes a car ban based on the last number of vehicle licence plates. Plates ending in 1 or 2 are banned on Mondays, 3 or 4 on Tuesdays and so on, with 9 or 0 banned on Fridays. Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays are exempt from the car ban. The metro-wide ban takes effect from 0700-1000 and resumes at 1500-1900. Note that in Makati City, the car ban is for 24 hours.

Avis (tel: (02) 742 2871; website: www.avis.com) and Hertz (tel: (02) 897 5151; website: www.hertz.com) are the most reliable providers. The minimum age limit is 25 years for these major chains, although many local companies will not insist on this. The only required documentation is a valid international licence. Agencies should also furnish drivers with photocopies of the car registration papers and tax receipts.

Local providers, such as JB Rent-A-Car (tel: (02) 526 6288) may offer cheaper rates. Cash payment requires a deposit, usually around 150% of the estimated hire fee.

Bicycles and scooters are available for hire in some parks, but are not allowed to go beyond park grounds. There is also a high risk of accidents related to motorbikes, so their use is not recommended.