For a Half Day

Setti Fatma: Set within grassy terraces, the riverside hamlet of Setti Fatma is situated 40 miles (60km) southeast of Marrakech. The village lies at the very end of the winding Ourika Valley beyond the reach of most tourist coaches. Setti Fatma itself is merely a mud-brick village, if rather pretty, but the seven waterfalls that tumble and tear through the craggy rocks above it make it a popular location for treks and picnics. The first of the falls is quite an easy climb and it is possible to swim here in the icy-cold waters of the rock pool or to sunbathe on the rocks. The higher falls are harder work and sturdy shoes and a good head for heights will be required, although there are plenty of guides willing to offer help. The banks of several of the falls are lined with pleasant little cafes and restaurants. The best way to get to Setti Fatma is by grand taxi from the main bus station in Marrakech.

For a Whole Day

Essaouira: Located 180km (112 miles) west of Marrakech, this 18th-century walled coastal outpost is a welcome escape from the heat and bustle of the city. A trading and fishing port with a history dating back to the seventh century BC, it was overrun with pirates and largely rebuilt in the 18th century. With its silky-sand beach and blue-and-white-painted houses, it has a long association with artists, who are a clearly visible part of life in Essaouira today. A series of stone forts built along the seafront in a blend of Portuguese, French and Berber military architecture lend a powerful mystique to the town. Orson Welles shot some of his film Othello (1952) on the ramparts, the Skala du Port, here.The cooling Atlantic breeze, the alizee, has made it popular for surfing, windsurfing, and kite-boarding, although the stiff wind and choppy waves require advanced skills. Sunbathing, games of football and jogging along the beach are all popular activities. Residents tend to be more conservative than in Marrakech but are very accepting of the laid-back motley crowd of Moroccan Rastafarians, artsy Europeans, African punks, and hippies of every possible stripe. The tourist office, 10 Rue du Caire (tel: (024) 783 532; website: www.mogador-essaouira.com), can provide further information.

The quickest way of getting to Essaouira from Marrakech is by grand taxi, which offers the added bonus of possibly witnessing tree-climbing goats en route. Supratours (tel:(024) 435 525) express buses leave Marrakech from next door to the train station twice daily. Several private buses also leave Marrakech's main bus station daily.