Major cities in Morocco are connected by a good network of relatively uncongested roads, but driving within Marrakech is not recommended due to almost constant traffic jams of trucks, cars, daredevil scooters, clueless pedestrians, and stubborn donkeys. Street parking is rare, and should you find it, a tip of a few dirhams is expected by the 'parking guardian' on the block (usually wearing a blue coat). Many of the new roads in the Palmeraie (palm grove) outside Marrakech aren't yet paved, and a 4-wheel drive is recommended.

Not that people always follow them, but here are the rules of the road. The official speed limit is 100kph (62mph) outside towns and 40kph (25mph) in urban areas. Driving is on the right. The minimum age for driving is 18 years, but drivers under 21 should also check car hire agency rules. There are frequent road blocks once you get outside Marrakech, so drivers should keep their papers accessible. By law, both driver and passengers must wear seat belts (front seat) when driving or face an on-the-spot fine. No alcohol level in the blood whatsoever is considered permissible when driving. Roadside police officers have been well trained to spot drunken driving and will not hesitate to pull cars over. The Moroccan authorities acknowledge most foreign driving licences, but an International Driving Permit is recommended.

Emergency breakdown service: There is no general breakdown service - hire cars should have emergency breakdown details on board. For accidents, contact police (tel: 19).

Routes to the city: Marrakech is linked to Casablanca by the P7, to Fez by the P24, to Ouarzazate by the P31, to Essaouira by the P10, and to Agadir via the P10 then P40.

Coach services: Most services between Morocco's major cities and towns are run by CTM, the national coach company (tel: (024) 434 402; website: www.ctm.co.ma), which is reliable and runs on strict schedules. CTM's urban and intercity routes leave from Marrakech's Gare Routière (central bus station) just outside Bab Doukkala at Place el Mouarabitène (tel: (044) 433 933), on the northwestern edge of the old city. Bus tickets can be purchased in advance from the main bus station, or at the Guéliz CTM office on Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni (tel: (024) 448 328). It is no cheaper but it will guarantee a seat, which is particularly advisable on routes that run a limited daily service.

Eurolines (tel: 0870 580 8080, in the UK only; website: www.eurolines.co.uk) runs a service from London's Victoria coach station to Marrakech every Monday, with returns from Marrakech's central bus station on Fridays. Eurolines also runs services to and from Marrakech to/from destinations all over Europe, with many routes involving a change of coach in Paris. International buses arrive and depart from the Guéliz CTM office on Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni.

Supratours (tel: (024) 435 525) provides comfortable, air-conditioned express bus services to/from Essaouira, Agadir, and Laayoune. Buses depart and arrive from the Supratours station next door to the train station at Avenue Hassan II. You can purchase tickets in advance at the Supratours station or via your hotel or riad.