Marrakech is more a city of colours, sounds, tastes and scents than of great monuments, and with good reason: local mudbrick tends to crumble when built more than two stories high, even when reinforced with cedar posts. The labyrinth souks north of the Jemaa el Fna are a wake-up call to the senses and require sharp navigational skills - it's not a city that lends itself to hurried travelling. However, the main area, packed with artisans and shops, is surprisingly compact, and part of the fun is to wander, never knowing what surprises you might stumble upon. A guide is not necessary and since the introduction of the tourist police you're far less likely to get hassled into taking a guide - something that soured visits to Marrakech before this time.

Any visit will centre on the medina and the irregular square of Jemaa el Fna, the heart of the city. The soul of the city is the nearby Koutoubia Mosque, the main place of worship in the city. Like all Marrakech mosques and zaouias (saint's shrines), entry is forbidden to non-Muslims. However, the Koutoubia's architecture can be appreciated from the grounds, which are open to everyone.

Many of the city's attractions are within walking distance of the Jemaa el-Fna, with the rest being just a short taxi ride away. The city's five medina-based museums are in converted palaces and historic mansions, each with its own strengths and architectural style and well worth a slow meander around. Most of Marrakech's main sights are very popular with tourists and can be very crowded, particularly around Jemaa el Fna and the souks, where tourists should mind their wallets at peak times.

When Marrakech becomes too intense, havens of tranquillity can be found in the many lush public and private gardens both in and outside the city. The Jardin Majorelle in Guéliz is a welcome escape, and the Palmeraie (palm grove) northeast of the medina offers upscale relaxation at spas, clubs, and villa resorts.

Délègué Règional du Tourisme (ONMT)
Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, Avenue Mohammed V, Guéliz
Tel: (024) 436 179.
Website: www.visitmorocco.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1200 and 1500-1830.

There are no dedicated tourist passes in Marrakech.