The main shopping streets, the rue Paradis, rue Saint Ferréol and rue de Rome, run off the Canebière, just to the north of the Office du Tourisme. The Centre Bourse, just behind the Old Port, has a shopping mall above the underground car park.

There are several markets in Marseille. One not to miss is the fish market (daily 0730-1230) on the quai des Belges, at the Vieux Port, a real spectacle as local fishermen compete with one another to sell the catch of the day to passers-by. For something completely different, try ‘les Puces' (the flea market), 130 chemin de la Madrague Ville, 15e, a cross between a north African bazaar and a car boot sale (with a few antiques thrown in for good measure), one of the liveliest places to find yourself on Saturday or Sunday morning. (Open Tuesday to Saturday 0800-1200 and 1400-1800, Sunday 0830-1300.)

Popular items to bring back home include soap (the famous ‘savon de Marseille'); santons, or carved wooden or clay crèche figurines - in December, you will be able to buy some at the Marché aux Santons on the Canebière. Otherwise, the Ateliers Marcel Carbonel, 47 rue Neuve-Ste-Catherine, 7e, offer the widest choice in town, as well as Pastis (Marseille's famous tipple), garlic (a key ingredient in Provençal cooking), and Provençal fabric and pottery.

La Maison du Pastis, 108 quai du Port, 2e (www.lamaisondupastis.com), has the greatest selection in town (over 90 different pastis, including a few home-made ones) and is well worth a visit.

Last but not least some navettes, delicious orange-blossom flavoured biscuits whose shape is supposed to represent the small boats on which ‘les Saintes' came over to the Provence coast. The only place to buy them is at Le Four des Navettes, 136 rue Sainte, 7e.

Shops are open Monday to Saturday 0800-1200 and 1400-1900, although some remain open at lunchtime. Most shops are closed on Sunday. Sales tax varies from 5.5% (food) to 19.6% (luxury goods).