Past and present sit side-by-side in sprawling Mexico City where a handsome historic Colonial-era heart sits amongst ever-changing modernity.

Settled by the Aztecs in 1345 before being overthrown by the Spanish, Mexico City was founded by the conquistadors on Lake Texcoco in 1525. Today, the capital is known affectionately as 'el DF' (day-effay) by proud locals (from the city's 'Distrito Federal' status) and is home to a hip, emerging art and gastronomic scene that is drawing a new wave of trendy elite to its fashionable tree-lined neighbourhoods.

Though the impression of Mexico City as a smoggy, lawless place continues to dog international tourism efforts, Mexico's chaotic capital city is one of the most vibrant urban spaces in the world. Huge expanses of metropolitan parkland represent the largest on the planet while gorgeous upscale pedestrian-friendly districts are dubbed the Beverly Hills of Mexico.

Brightly-painted open-topped barges (trajineras) trawl Mexico City's mysterious ancient canal system past "floating islands" (chinampas) piled high with flowers, fruits and vegetables.

With ex-New York City mayor Rudy Guiliani onboard as "crime consultant," crime has halved in the last decade, though Mexico City continues to battle the effects of gang-related social unrest and like other Latin American nations, the Mexican government is contending with the challenges resulting from a US downturn.

And although the city has its foibles, annoyances and frustrations it remains one of the worlds' most exhilarating and exciting metropolitan hubs. For many, the madcap Mexican mentality is symbolised by the iconic el vocho, the capital's beloved rule-flouting, white and green VW Beetle taxi - an analogy that suits the city well.