Mexico City City Guide - Nightlife

The nightlife in Mexico City is as lively and varied as everything else the city has to offer. From gentle supper clubs with floorshows to loud, brash nightclubs, and from piano bars to antros (or disco-bars) and bars that offer traditional Mexican music - all tastes are catered for. The most popular districts are Polanco, San Angel, Coyoacán and, more recently, Condesa (a residential neighbourhood just south of La Zona Rosa). La Zona Rosa is still a popular nightspot but has lost ground to Polanco and Condesa in recent years. The exception is the Centro Histórico, which is surprisingly quiet at night. Nightlife starts late in Mexico and ends late. There are no licensing hours but many bars and nightclubs are closed on Sundays. Prices of drinks and admission vary enormously depending on the area. When drinking alcohol, it is worth remembering that, because of the high altitude, one drink in Mexico City can have the effect of two at lower altitudes. The minimum age for drinking in Mexico is 18 years old. In the popular districts, thieves are rife, so remember to keep your wallet well guarded.

Tiempo Libre (website: www.tiempolibre.com.mx), published every Thursday, is the weekly listings magazine (in Spanish only) and can be bought at newspaper-stands. The English-language newspaper, The News, has a brief what's-on guide at the weekend.

Bars: In the Centro Histórico, La Opera Bar, Avenida Cinco de Mayo 10, is a late 19th-century establishment with a lively atmosphere. Look out for a bullet hole in the ceiling, said to have come from Pancho Villa's revolver. For another Mexican speciality, head for La Casa de las Sirenas, Guatemala 32, a bar and restaurant offering over 250 varieties of tequila.

Rioma, Insurgentes Sur 377, Condesa, is one of the trendiest bars at the moment. There is a very strict entrance policy but if you do get past the doormen expect a mix of electronic lounge music with louder techno sounds as the evening progresses. Another popular bar is the rooftop bar of the Hotel Habita, Avenida Presidente, Msasaryk 201: this minimalist bar in Polanco is a magnet for young media types. It's not cheap but the view from over the city makes it worth the price.

Across the way, Cosmo is a younger and noiser alternative with a DJ and exotic cocktails. Less hip but more relaxed is the Bar Euro, Avenida Presidente Masaryk 134, with indoor and outdoor seating. Mezzanote, also located in Plaza Zentro, Avenida Presidente Masaryk 407, is a lively restaurant and bar, with disco music Thursday to Saturday. The nostalgic ex-pat Shelty, Avenida Campos Eliseos 204 (facing Chapultepec Park), is a wood-panelled English pub in the Nikko Hotel.

In Coyoacán, the popular Hijo del Cuervo, Jardín del Centenario 17, attracts a youthful mix of Mexicans and foreigners and occasionally features live music.

Barracuda, Nuevo Leon 4, is a hip, chilled bar offering food and cocktails and jazz. Rexo, Saltillo 1, is another bar/restaurant popular with young professionals, as is Cinna on Nuevo Leon, below the cinema. In nearby Zona Rosa, Bar Milan, Milan 18 is ever popular especially on Thursdays and Fridays with an eclectic mix of music from rock to hip hop.

For a more Mexican experience, the Centenario cantina, Michoacan 42, is always packed and has live musicians, guaranteeing a good night out.

Clubs: The Colmillo, Versailles 49, in a colonial house in the Juárez district, was founded by two English men and remains one of the hottest clubs in Mexico City, with DJs playing acid jazz upstairs and techno below.

In the bohemian Roma district, Avant-Garde, Puebla 310, pumps hardcore techno to a devoted crowd, while the Living Room, Orizaba 146, in a delightful high-ceilinged colonial mansion, is one of the most popular gay clubs in town. Also in Roma is the fun Mama Rumba, Queretaro 230, an institution with salsa lovers, who groove the night away to live bands.

Mauna Loa, Avenida San Jeronimo 240, is a popular Polynesian nightclub with live music for dancing and a Polynesian floorshow. Restaurant Chez'ar in Hotel Aristos, Paseo de la Reforma 276, has a band playing live dance music, from the rumba to the fox trot, while Antillanos, Francisco Pimentel 78, is the place to go for salsa dancing, with its large dance floor and enthusiastic crowd. Acanto, Chapultepec Park at El Lago restaurant hosts the city's most exclusive club overlooking a lake and fountain.

Live Music: Mexico City attracts big-name international rock and pop acts. The main venues are Auditorio Nacional, Paseo de la Reforma 50, Teatro Metropólitan, Indepencia 90, and the Palacio de los Deportes, corner of Avenida Río Churubusco and Añil. Hard Rock Live, Campos Eliseos, 290 Polanco hosts well known international as well as Spanish-language bands in an intimate state-of-the-art venue. New Orleans Jazz, Avenida Revolucion 1655, San Angel, is classic jazz bar. For something a bit different Adonis Homero 424, Polanco, has a club upstairs from the restaurant with belly dancing and a Middle Eastern band.

Bar Jorongo, in the Sheraton Maria Isabel Hotel, Paseo de la Reforma 325, has been one of the city's popular nightspots for more than 25 years, where big-name mariachis play Mexican music. Alternatively, visit Plaza Garibaldi, on Eje Central between Republica de Honduras and Republica de Peru. This square, lined with bars and restaurants, comes alive from about 2000-2400 when the mariachi bands gather, dressed in black, silver-studded suits and large hats. Café Tenampa is a long-standing institution on the square, where clients are serenaded by mariachis and can test their virility with a popular electric shock game.