As you'd expect in young, cosmopolitan Milan, the nightlife is vibrant. The evening begins with the passegiata, a cultural institution itself in Italy, where everyone, attired in the smartest clothes possible, 'walks out' - strolling up and down central streets in order 'to see and be seen'. The trend is to move on during the night, visiting two or three locales, thereby demonstrating social savvy and bella figura (being 'with it' is perhaps the best expression of this notoriously vacuous Italian phrase). Most bars and restaurants stay open until late (0100), after which the energetic move on to the nightclubs (discoteca), which stay open till 0400 (most shut Mondays). The legal drinking age is 16 years.

Entertainment listings are available online at www.corriere.it and www.hellomilano.it. The newspapers Corriere della Sera (on Wednesday) and La Repubblica (on Thursday) also supply listings, as do the tourist offices, Spettacoli Milano and Mese Milano.

Bars: Between 1800 and 2100 cafes and bars come into their own as the after-work crowds seek out the perfect aperitivo - as well as the best place to see and be seen. Many bars offer free finger food with aperitifs. Classic cocktails often involve Prosecco (dry or sweet sparkling wine) or Campari.

10 Corso Como Cafe, Corso Como 10, with its slightly oriental slant to decorations is one of the hottest bars in town, as is the classic Victoria Café in the financial district, Via Clerici 1. Il Gattopardo Café, Via Piero della Francesca 17, in a deconsecrated church, in the upwardly mobile northwest of the centre, is still the haunt of the idle rich; it is essential to book in advance. The Garden Bar of the Sheraton Diana Majestic, Viale Piave 2, is the place to be during warm weather, especially during Milan fashion weeks. In the Navigali district, La Biciclette, Via Conca del Naviglio 10, with its monthly changing display of artwork, attracts an extremely varied crowd; the buffet is a classic.

Clubs: Killer Plastic, Viale Umbria 120, is popular for Italian house and techno music. Hollywood Rythmoteque, Corso Como 15 (website: www.discotecahollywood.com), remains popular with the glamorous crowd, especially on Sundays. Café L'Atlantique, Viale Umbria 42 (website: www.cafeatlantique.com), offers hip-hop and house music. The Shocking Club, Bastioni di Porta Nuova 12 (website: www.shockingclub.net), has minimalist décor; the club lives up to its name, especially on Wednesdays with its outrageous theme nights. Large clubs (up to 2,000) include Propaganda, Via Castelbarco 11, and Alcatraz, Via Valtellina 21 (website: www.alcatrazmilano.com), a refurbished industrial building with two dancefloors.

Live Music: Rolling Stone, Corso XXII Marzo 32 (website: www.rollingstone.it), is Milan's temple of rock during the week (dancing on Fridays and Saturdays; dinner nightclub on Tuesday). Scimmie, Via Ascanio Sforza 49 (website: www.scimmie.it), still manages to maintain its reputation as the spot for jazz in the heart of the Navagali district. In the same area, Blues House, Via S Uguzzone 96 (website: www.blueshouse.it), is popular with locals and foreigners. Tangram, Via Pezzotti 52, is excellent for rock and blues, and Tunnel, Via Sammartini 30, is a good bet for indie music. Many major acts include Milan on their tours, playing either at the FilaForum stadium, Via di Vittorio 6 (website: www.filaforum.it), or PalaVobis Music Village, Via Sant'Elia 33.