There is no underground system in Mumbai but the city is well served by its suburban rail network (see Getting There By Rail). There are also a large number of bus routes run by BEST (Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport) (tel: (022) 2414 3611, for 24-hour enquiries; website: www.bestundertaking.com), which provides transport within the city and suburbs. The buses are extremely cheap but it is difficult to determine where the buses go, since the route maps (available at newspaper stands) are virtually indecipherable. Buses are often very crowded and seats hard to come by. Some routes (Bus 1, 65, 66 and 202) operate a round-the-clock service. A small minority of the buses are fitted with air conditioning. Tickets are best purchased from the conductor and although concessionary fares are offered, no passes are currently available.

Mumbai has plenty of delightfully dated taxis (in a black and yellow livery) plying for trade on the streets. For the foreign visitor, they represent the best way of getting around the city, especially as auto-rickshaws (a staple form of urban travel elsewhere in India) are banned from the centre of Mumbai. Taxis can be hailed on the street and drivers are reasonably knowledgeable of the geography of the city, though it's best to give directions by landmarks rather than street names. All taxis have a meter, but these are out of date, so each driver carries a conversion table to compute the correct fare. Ensure that the meter is zeroed before starting the journey. Fares are inexpensive: a journey in the centre of the city will rarely cost more than Rs100. Taxis can also be hired for the day. This is a good way for tourists to see the city. For those who prefer a higher degree of luxury, Cool Cabs (tel: (022) 2216 4466) provides more modern, air-conditioned taxis, which can only be booked by telephone.

Tipping etiquette in Mumbai's taxis can be somewhat confusing for the tourist. Some drivers demand a tip quite openly, while others are content with the metered or negotiated fare. A 10% tip is generally acceptable.

Driving in Mumbai is not recommended to tourists. The streets are chaotic and poorly signposted with cows and trucks jostling for space. The road surface in many streets is in a state of disrepair and large potholes are commonplace. The horn is the most commonly used aid to driving. There do not seem to be any rules (although red lights are respected) and would-be drivers should be warned that many Indian motorists regard the use of headlights at night as wholly optional; this is potentially very dangerous. Some speed limits have been imposed in parts of India, but few people seem to obey them.

Parking is a problem on Mumbai's streets and an increase in underground parking lots, around such areas as Shivaji Park, Nare Park and Oval Maidan, has been proposed to accommodate shopping, offices and parking plazas. Many hotels provide indoor parking for their patrons.

Drivers in India must be over 18 years, although many car hire companies will insist on a higher minimum age. To hire a car, drivers will need to present an International Driving Permit and insurance must be arranged at the time of hiring. Avis at the Oberoi Hotel (tel: (022) 2232 6418; website: www.avis.com) provides self-drive hire cars. Royal Cars (tel: (022) 2283 2928) supplies mid-range cars.

Bicycles are popular forms of transport on the crowded streets of Mumbai and there is no requirement for cyclists to wear helmets. Motorbikes, including Enfields, are available for long-term buy-back (you purchase the bike and the shop guarantees to buy it back from you at a discount when you're done) from Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla 205/207 Dr D Bhadkamkar Road, Opera House (tel: (022) 2309 9313; www.premjis.com). There are also various places, usually small, which hire out bicycles cheaply and visitors keen to do so should enquire at a bicycle repair shop.