The party animal will not be disappointed by Mumbai. The city reckons itself to be the capital of Indian nightlife. Certainly, the bars and clubs offer enough variety to satisfy even the most jaded palate. Colaba and south Mumbai used to be the centre of the city's nightlife, but recently competing clubs and lounges (an Indian hybrid of a bar and a club) have started opening in the suburbs. The prevailing atmosphere is informal (a jacket and tie is almost never required) but Mumbaikers like to be well turned-out and the atmosphere of some establishments is decidedly chic. Many bars and clubs operate a couples-only policy, for members and non-members alike, and charge an entrance fee.

The most popular drinks are beer and spirits (particularly whisky) rather than imported wine, which is relatively expensive and often of indifferent quality, although Indian wine is now better made and more widely available than ever before. The legal minimum drinking age is 21. Licensing hours appear to vary and 5-star hotels have an extension to enable them to sell alcohol until 0030. Many of the larger international hotels have a nightclub on the premises as well.

Time Out is published fortnightly and is available from news stands. It carries listings on many, if not all, aspects of having fun in Mumbai.

Bars: Indigo, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bunder, was the original Mumbai bar-restaurant and, despite having spawned numerous imitators, its minimalist décor still attracts a smartly turned-out set. Geoffrey's, in the Hotel Marine Plaza (itself a fine example of art deco architecture well worth visiting), is the best-known English-style pub in Mumbai. Geoffrey's stays open until 0100, and serves a good set-price lunch. Henry Tham's, near Apollo Bunder, is an über-slick bar and restaurant that is currently the hippest place to have a drink in town, popular with Bollywood starlets and their aficionados. Leopold, Colaba Causeway, near Regal, sells inexpensive beer and good snacks; it is popular with backpackers. Zenzi, 183 Waterfield Road, is a stylish bar in the northern suburbs of Bandra with lots of lounges and bright colours - it's popular with expats and well-to-do Mumbaikans. All the 5-star hotels have bars, where you can drink in air-conditioned and pricey seclusion.

Clubs: In the past, the best nightclubs in Mumbai were to be found in the 5-star hotels; this is no longer necessarily the case as new places are opening all the time. There is now a dazzling array of nightclubs (known variously as clubs, bars or lounges) on offer in Mumbai. Filled every weekend with Mumbai's trendy youngsters, Ra, in the Phoenix Mills Compound, Lower Parel, is usually a lively option. Red Light, 145 MG Road, plays a range of music, including hip-hop, and is popular with students. For something a little more grungy, try the Voodoo Pub, 2/5 Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Road, which hosts an unofficial gay-friendly night on Fridays. Of the nightclubs in the international hotels, Insomnia, in the Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, continues to be one of the most expensive and fashionable dance venues in town.

Live Music: Not Just Jazz by the Bay, Soona Mahal, 143 Marine Drive (tel: (022) 2285 1876; website: www.mars-world.com/restaurants/jbb.html), is the only remaining bar for live music in the city centre. It has a varied programme of live music; it also stages karaoke nights and on some nights features Indian music.