Mumbai (Bombay) Restaurants
In the great Indian cities the best (or at least the most expensive) restaurants have traditionally been found in the big international hotels. This, to some extent, is still the case, although the quality and variety of restaurants outside the marbled halls of the ‘5-stars' is growing all the time. Indeed, it is now possible to eat very well in Mumbai without going into one of the big hotels at all. India, with its strong tradition of vegetarianism, is a most rewarding place for those who do not eat meat; menus are said to be ‘veg' or ‘non-veg'.
Authorities in Mumbai have a more relaxed attitude to alcohol than in Delhi or other parts of India, and beer is available in most upscale establishments. Imported wine in India is expensive due to import duties; Indian wine is improving rapidly and offers a sensibly priced alternative. Indian beer is delicious and invariably arrives at your table ice-cold; it is the ideal accompaniment to most types of subcontinental cuisine.
We have selected 15 restaurants across five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations, and have listed those in alphabetical order in each section. For each establishment, we have indicated the approximate cost of a meal for two with wine or beer (where sold), including taxes, by reference to the following scale:
$$$$ (over Rs8,000)
$$$ (Rs3,000 to Rs8,000)
$$ (Rs1,000 to Rs3,000)
$ (up to Rs1,000)
Gastronomic
Khyber
Situated near the High Court in the heart of South Mumbai, Khyber is an elegant, upmarket restaurant serving exquisite Northern Indian, Mughal food, using the best, freshest ingredients and a charcoal grill. A grand entrance foreshadows a beautiful interior, stone-effect plastering embellished with delicately carved arches and screens in the Mughal style. Excellent value.
145 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 2267 3227/8/9.
Website: www.khyberrestaurant.com
Price: $$$
Peshawari
Located in the ITC Maratha Hotel near the international airport, Peshawari has superbly prepared dishes from the North West Frontier. Tender kebabs, leg of lamb and their speciality Dal Bukhara (a thick black dhal) are all prepared in the glass-enclosed kitchen and served in a stylish dining area. It's best to book ahead as this restaurant is very popular.
Sahar Airport Rd, Andheri
Tel: (022) 2830 3030.
Price: $$
Wasabi
Wasabi, in the Taj Hotel, is the only authentic Japanese restaurant in Mumbai. Chef Masaharu Morimoto, late of New York's celebrated Nobu restaurant, presides over a kitchen that offers the very best in Japanese food. The dining room, with a separate sushi bar, is spare and elegant. This is probably the most expensive restaurant in town.
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder
Tel: (022) 6665 3366.
Website: www.tajhotels.com
Price: $$$$
Business
Gaylord
Excellent North Indian dishes are served at the long-standing Gaylord restaurant in their ostentatious dining room. Decorated with Raj-era pizzazz and serviced by suit-wearing and eager staff. There's an outdoor seating area, separated from the street traffic, and a quieter indoor air-conditioned section better suited for conversation.
79 Mayfair Building, Veer Nariman Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 2282 1259.
Price: $
Masala Kraft
A modern Indian restaurant in the Taj Hotel, Masala Kraft offers an eclectic mix of dishes from all the principal traditions of Indian cuisine; veg, non-veg and seafood are all available. The cool, spacious dining room is a modern interpretation of a traditional Indian style: a heavily coffered roof is supported on massive wooden columns. The food is succulent; the service efficient and friendly.
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder
Tel: (022) 6665 3366.
Website: www.tajhotels.com
Price: $$$
Trishna
On a back street in Fort, Trishna is perhaps the best seafood restaurant in Mumbai. Fish, lobster, crab, prawns and squid are all served in a variety of styles, Indian and Chinese. Although the dining room is unpretentiously simple and functional, the quality of the food frequently attracts the Bollywood glitterati.
Birla Mansion, Sai Baba Marg, Fort
Tel: (022) 2270 3213.
Price: $$$
Trendy
Bade Miya
This may just be the most popular street-food stand in India. Every night an army of staff prepare fresh and delicious grilled snacks, including spicy baida rolls filled with chicken, mutton or beef. It's only open for dinner and you can either grab your food to go or sit at one of the packed street-side tables.
Tulloch Road, Colaba
Tel: (022) 2284 8038.
Price: $
Budget
Mahesh Lunch Home
A slightly downmarket version of Trishna, Mahesh Lunch Home serves excellent seafood prepared in the Mangalore style. There's lots of different fish on the menu, including lobster and crab - be sure to try their rice curries or tandoori pomfret.
8B Cowasji Patel Street, Fort
Tel: (022) 2287 0938.
Price: $
Sabar
Near the Victorian splendour of Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Sabar has been serving Gujarati vegetarian food for more than a century. The table d'hôte offers dal, pulses, rice and chapatis cooked in various ways; dhosas, idlis, uttappams and other staples of southern Indian cookery are also available. The restaurant is basic but the food simple, delicious and nourishing. It's very cheap. Unlicensed.
177 DN Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 2261 2604/5/6.
Price: $
Personal Recommendations
Indigo
The most fashionable restaurant in South Mumbai, Indigo is the headquarters of the smart set. It serves mostly European food (sandwiches, salads, steaks, etc) although the odd dish hints at an Indian provenance. The dining rooms are in a stark modern style; there is a terrace where you can eat during the cooler months of the year. The bar attracts a lively crowd in the evenings.
4 Mandlik Road, Colaba
Tel: (022) 5636 8999.
Price: $$$.
Olive Bar & Kitchen
This swanky restaurant and bar serves excellent Italian food, including great pastas and salads. The décor is all Mediterranean white (even the indoor trees are painted white) and the bar also gets full up on weekend nights with DJs and gyrating hip locals and expats.
Tourist Hotel, 14 Union Park, Khar
Tel: (022) 2605 8228.
Website: www.olivebarandkitchen.com
Price: $$
Soho
This cafe belongs to Chateau Indage, India's leading vineyard owners and as a result, it's an excellent place to sample Indian wine. There is a complete selection of Indage's wines, available both by the bottle and the glass. The food is Italian (pizza, pasta) with the odd oriental dish thrown in.
75 Warden Road, Breach Candy
Tel: (022) 2369 2705.
Price: $$
Theobroma
This bakery is ideal for an after-dinner treat. Although it may not look like much from the outside, the cakes here are absolutely divine, especially the rich chocolate cake. They also do sourdough bread, focaccia, Danish pastries and good coffee.
Cusrow Baug, Shop 24, Colaba Causeway, Colaba
Tel: (022) 6629 2929.
Price: $
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