Mumbai's main areas of interest are located on the more southerly parts of the peninsula, where the European settlers established their enclave and where the various local communities took root. The centre of Imperial Bombay is the area known as Fort, after the fortifications that protected the British settlement. Starting in the 1860s, the governors of Bombay embarked on an ambitious programme of development, a process that continued under official and private patronage well into the 20th century. As a result, Mumbai boasts a stunning array of High Victorian buildings in a fascinating range of architectural styles, which reflect the then prevailing British passion for the gothic as well as the influence of Indian and Saracenic styles. The result is a breathtaking affirmation of the wealth, panache and confidence of Imperial Bombay. There are numerous examples for the visitor to look at, but Mumbai University, Standard Chartered Bank Building and Municipal Corporation Building give a flavour of what can be expected.

At the same time as the sahibs were building their modern imperial monuments in the Fort, the local communities were expanding rapidly to the north. This part of the city is every bit as characteristic of the modern city as the Fort is - some would say more so. Its narrow, twisting streets and raucous bazaars (all noise, activity and thronging with people) are a complete contrast to the spacious, tree-lined boulevards of the more southerly areas.

Superimposed on these two distinctly different parts of Mumbai is the modern city: the 1930s developments along Marine Drive and on Cumbala Hill, the modern office blocks to the west of the Maidans and the tower blocks that line the southern end of Back Bay. Further north, up the peninsula, are the suburbs of Mumbai and it is here that the worst of the shanty towns and slums are located. These are, sadly, as much part of modern Mumbai as the more glamorous areas to the south. The poverty, squalor and degradation are truly shocking.

Mumbai was a city built on toleration (prosperity was considered more important than religious homogeneity) and this is reflected in the number and range of places of worship that can be found in the city. The Anglican cathedral, Catholic church and Scottish kirk in Mumbai rub shoulders with countless Hindu temples, many mosques and other Parsee and Buddhist temples. Together, they form a rich and varied heritage.

Most attractions are fairly central and can be reached on foot, otherwise visitors tend to take taxis, as they are relatively cheap and infinitely more convenient than public transport.

Indiatourism Mumbai
123 Mararishi Karve Road, Churchgate
Tel: (022) 2207 4333/4 or 2203 3144/5.
Website: www.incredibleindia.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat 0830-1400.

There are also offices at the international and the domestic airports. Many of the individual states of India have their own tourist office in Mumbai. Indiatourism provides contact details.

There are currently no tourist passes available in Mumbai.